WINES OF CHILE—INVIGORATING!

Fact: Chile is a long and skinny country in South America that has cultivated wine since the Spanish Conquistadores arrived in the 1500s. Fact: Chile is one of the only places in the world where the devastating root louse Phylloxera failed to take purchase, so vines there are planted on their own roots. Fact: Carmenere in the vineyards there was long mistaken for Merlot, so it flourished in Chile while nearly becoming extinct elsewhere. 

All pretty substantial facts, where the world of wine is concerned, yes?

But also: Chile hasn't really been known for making quality wine until a few decades ago, so with relatively speedy advances in winemaking techniques and passed-along knowledge, there has been a kind of "secret" major growth in the Chilean wine industry. Wineaux, we can keep this secret no longer!

At a recent tasting of Chilean wines led by the always-engaging Fred Dexheimer, MS, and Hector Vergara, MS (South America's only Master Sommelier,) it became evident that the current generation of Chilean winemakers are infusing their industry with a fresh, invigorating breath. Experimentation and rule-breaking are the buzzwords, and the results are delicious. Not to mention, there are diverse styles of grapes—something for everyone—and the general price point is unbelievable for the quality. (Starred entries are particular favorites.)

*2013 Caliterra Tributo:100% Sauvignon Blanc from the coastal Leyda Valley. Pale straw gold color, fresh nose of kiwi and gooseberry, lemon-lime, papaya and lime curd. Well-balanced fruit and acidity, grass and fresh herbs emerge on the long finish, mid-palate minerality, a bit of kelp/seaweed, quaffable but complex. ~$15

2012 Casa Silva Sauvignon Gris: from over 100-year-old vines in Colchagua Valley, was thought to be Sauv. Blanc until 1998 when they discovered it was actually Sauv. Gris. Pale straw color, über-minerally, herbaceous, "hot" lemon, not overly acidic but it clings to the teeth, white pear and peach on the clean finish. ~$18

2011 Tamaya Chardonnay T Line Limited Release: Limari Valley. Pale gold, pineapple and cream, bit merde-y, warm apple pie. In the mouth, white florals, lime zest, chalky minerals, integrated use of oak. ~$15

2012 Clos des Fous Subsollum Pinot Noir: Aconcagua Coast/Pucalan/Traiguen Valley. The winemakers are four "crazy guys" who are seeking out unusual terrors and pushing boundaries. Fred said, "They don't care what anyone thinks about their wines," which I believe is often a good thing! And Hector opined, "It's a beautiful example of what's new in Chile. Wines with minerality—wines breaking barriers." Pale garnet/ruby. Underripe berries, very spicy, rose petal potpourri, stemmy bramble fruit nose. Very spicy in the mouth too! Tart cranberry, pepper/cinnamon, sour cherry, minerality, fairly tannic, decent acidity, very interesting. ~$22

*2009 Oveja Negra Carignan Single Vineyard: Maule Valley. Mostly Carignan though somewhat of a field blend, with Petit Verdot as a backbone. Medium ruby, warm, velvety nose of cherry liqueur. Elegant, fresh cherry/berry notes, warmth and integration on the finish, bit of licorice/bark, good acidity, integrated tannins. Very nice! ~$20

2011 De Martino Vigno Carignan: Maule Valley. In terms of experimentation, this winery is the first Chilean operation to buy large Austrian oak barrels, and they're working with concrete eggs and modern amphorae vessels as well. Medium ruby color. Pizza (!) nose—oregano, tomato, dough—and meaty with a high tone of perfume. Cherry jam, spice, earthy. The acidity lifts it up; I wasn't initially a fan, but this one grew on me and I kept returning to it. ~$35

*2012 MontGras Antu by Ninquén Syrah: Colchagua Valley. Medium ruby. Interesting nose of lilac, violets, pepper, blackberries, clove, licorice, and a bit of oak. Lightly spicy in the mouth, but it lingers. Less-ripe fruit on palate, but rich, long, integrated finish. Herby, juicy, touch of vanilla, touch of chocolate, very nice (I even drew a heart.) ~$12

2013 Viña Ventisquero Grey GCM: Colchagua/Apalta Valley. A bit of a takeoff on the GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blends of the Rhône and Australia, this Grenache, Carignan, Mataro (aka Mourvedre) is a medium ruby, with a very clean and laser-like nose of red fruit, whiff of merde, and floral perfume. In the mouth, raspberry prevails, with cherry and savory notes of bay leaf, cinnamon, black pepper, and eucalyptus. Good acidity, soft but grippy tannins, this is really interesting. Fred calls these guys "thrill-seeking winemakers." ~$20

*2011 Odfjell Vineyards Orzada Malbec: Curico/Lontué Valley. Medium-plus ruby. Interesting nose! Liquid herbs, rosemary, sweet basil, with black cherry, violets, and smoke. Surprisingly lighter in mouth after such a powerful nose, with blueberries, spicy cigar leaf, iodine. Elegant with good tannins and lifted by acidity. Yum. ~$18

*2010 Concha y Toro Terrunyo Block 27 Carmenere: Cachaopal Valley. From one of the Chilean names you may recognize, the Carmenere from the "perfect storm" Peumo Vineyard has a medium-plus ruby color, and a nose of burnt cinnamon spices, graphite, coriander, and wood. In the mouth, plums, graphite and ashes, and very integrated tannins and subtle acidity make for a long, smooth finish. ~$38

One of my favorites was the *2011 Montes Purple Angel: Colchagua (Apalta/Marchigue) Valley. 92% Carmenere, 8% Petit Verdot. Opaque ruby color. Nose of mocha powder, lavender, ripe blue and black fruits. Incredibly dense in the mouth; cedar, "sweet" spices, fresh herbs, blackberry liqueur, bit of graphite/iodine. Very complex and lush, big but balanced, some acidity and sweet tannins. ~$75 (I was so hoping it was $12.99, but no dice!)

2010 Santa Rita Triple C: Maipo Valley. If you're looking for something "Evocative of Bordeaux with more fruit and spice," (says Fred,) look no further! 55% Cab Franc, 30% Cab Sauvignon, 15% Carmenere. Medium-plus garnet, nose of cranberry, bright green pepper, rose and violets, graphite, tobacco, cedar, tea leaves. In the mouth, fresh berry salad, very spicy, peppery, eucalyptus, cigar box, with subtle tannins. Certainly age-worthy. ~$43

*2010 Undurragua Altazor: Maipo Valley. From an "old" winery, this is a "new" wine; a Bordeaux-style blend, inspired by Vincente Huidobo, the author of the poem "Altazor." (80% Cab Sauvignon, 8% Carmenere, 8% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot.) Medium-plus garnet. Harmonious nose of cherry liqueur, lots of lush, ripe red berries, cassis, smoke and spice, lots of cigar box, cedar, violets, cola, dried figs. Really elegantly woven together, dense and lush, very long, nuanced and harmonious (that is definitely the word for this wine,) finish. Velvety tannins. Oak not overly prominent, seamlessly integrated. Just WOW. I have to give it another star: * ~$70

With such diversity, it is really worth giving Chile the due it deserves. These wines were inspiring, and really spoke to the focused attention from their winemakers, especially where microclimates are concerned. And with so many quality wines under $20, you can afford to try a variety of Chilean wines yourselves. It's a no-brainer: when you need some invigoration, simply turn to Chile! Cheers.

2010 BORD-EAUX-LA-LA...

It may come as no surprise that 2010 is supposed to be another stellar vintage in Bordeaux.  It seems after 2000, 2005 and 2009, the critics are unanimously weighing in with enthusiasm about yet another incredible vintage.  And guess what?  I agree.

In January, I attended the Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2010 Vintage tasting in New York City.  (At this point in my Minx-dom I do not get invitations to fly over for En Primeur advance tastings, but I will.  Oh, I will.)

I did not have a lot of time to taste leisurely at this event, and realize my notes have more than a few holes, but this quick-and-dirty experience was still overwhelmingly positive.   The one sub-region where I felt the wines did not immediately express themselves to the high level I expected was Pauillac, but I do expect these wines to develop.  I also wanted a little more from the dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac, however, these also need time to grow and mature.

That's a big point, actually: tasting Bordeaux wines so soon after release is a kind of infanticide.  They are meant to age and evolve, some for decades.  And yet we Wineaux have to pounce on the new vintage, shouting our critiques from the rooftops.  While many of these wines are enjoyable now (albeit rough and tumble,) if they intrigue you, be sure to put aside some bottles and take the journey of a true Bordeaux-lover over the next twenty years.

A COUPLE OF WHITES: (These you can drink now!)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) : 70% Sauv Blanc, 30% Sémillon.  Very pale with an aromatic nose, quite tart but excellent fruit and SweeTarts candy.  I like. (~$60)

Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan) : 51 Sauv Blanc, 33 Sémillon, 13 Sauv Gris, 3 Muscadet.  FLORAL aromatics (hello Muscadet/Sauv Gris?!) tangy, interesting. Well-intigrated.  (~$160)

THE MAIN EVENT: 

Châteu de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) : 70 Cab Sauv, 10 Merlot, 10 Cab Franc, 10 Petit Verdot.  Bright fruit, strong expression.  Very nice.  (~$60)

Château Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Léognan) : Very earthy, merde-y, light fruit, more terroir and leather, supple tannins. (~$150)

Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan) : Nice nose, quite soft considering youth, very tannic but smooth, black cassis.  Very nice. (~$210)

Château Beauregard (Pomerol) : Soft violets, dark berries, bit of dusty tannins and chocolate. (~$55)

Château Clinet (Pomerol) : Black fruits, tightly wound.  Chocolate, some lavender.  Wow - can't wait to see what this does in a few years! (~$170)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) : Violets, gorgeous amazeballs nose.  Rich, velvety, herbs - somewhat light fruit on the finish. (~$250)

Château Belgrave (Haut-Médoc) : Cranberry, strawberry, very nice feminine style - flirty.  Florals and herbs on the finish. (~$40)

Château Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc) :  52 Cab Sauv, 35 Merlot, 8 Cab Franc, 5 Petit Verdot.  Dense - brick dust, dirt, dark red cherries.  This will take a WHILE to develop.  (~$45)

Château La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) : Red cherries, dirt, bit of cherry liqueur at the finish, not too earthy. (~$70)

Château La Tour de By (Médoc) : Berry syrup, behind-the-teeth tannins, like eating dirt and cherry baked in a pie.  Nice! (~$22)

Château Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) : Nice components, SMOOTH integration!  Great fruit and structure.  Wow. (~$95)

Château Cantenac Brown (Margaux) : Spice box and cherry, florals on finish.  Very nice - bit more of a terroir expression.  (~$70)

Château Prieuré-Lichine (Margaux) : Sexy black fruit, lavender. Very yummy. (~$70)

Château Gruaud Larose (Saint-Julien) : Sweet oak, GREAT fruit.  Bright and rich red fruit. (~$85)

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac) : Black fruit, light - thin-ish in the mouth. (~$105)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) : Very earthy terroir, bit vegetative.  Hm. (~$190)

Château Pichon-Longueville, Baron (Pauillac) : Earthy, somewhat thin in mouth but nice notes, florals, fruit on finish.  Elegant but lightweight. (~$250)

Château Peélan-Ségur (Saint-Estèphe) : Lovely perfumey nose, super smooth.  Good acidity, very very very nice.  Robust red fruits.  (~$55)

DESSERT:  

Château Doisy Daëne (Barsac) : Closed nose.  Lemon curd, sugary. (~$30/375ml)

Château Guiraud (Sauternes) : Floral, light, flirty - nice.  Candied melon. (~$33/375ml)

Château La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) : Interesting - marzipan?!?  Floral, little funky. (~$45/375ml)

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) : Perfumey, light honey, light caramel. (~$35/375ml)

Château Suduiraut (Sauternes) : Honey, florals, bit of botrytis.  Light & nice. (~$48/375ml)

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Well, there you have it - this Wine Minx's knee-jerk reaction to the 2010 Bordeaux wines.  All in all - from a region trying to reclaim its status amongst younger Wineaux who need to be convinced that Bordeaux wines are not stodgy, overpriced status symbols - an exciting offering.

Let me know how you find them!  Cheers!

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A little overview for the Burgeoning Wineaux: 

- Bordeaux is a region in western France, and is one of the most storied and historical wine-producing areas of the world, with sub-regions all with individual terroirs and personalities.

- The whites are typically from Graves and Pessac-Léognan and are a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.  Recently, some other grapes are elbowing their way into the blend.  

 - The reds are usually Cabernet Sauvignon-based on the Left Bank (see the map above) and Merlot-based on the Right Bank.  Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot are often blended in and Carménère and Malbec are also allowed. 

 - The dessert wines are from Sauternes and Barsac, from blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, very sweet with high residual sugar, often affected by the Noble Rot botrytis cinerea, commonly sold in 375ml bottles.  

 - All Bordeaux wines command high prices, and the reds and dessert wines have the capacity to age for 20-30 years or more.  Even the whites can develop with some age.

CLEVER IDEA, BUT DOES IT WORK?

Dave Phinney, the creative mastermind behind Orin Swift (The Prisoner and others,) has embarked on another cheeky scheme; make a wine that in one fell swoop defines an entire country's terroir.

I am on the fence about this concept, Wineaux.  On one hand, it is an interesting gamble to see if blending a number of a particular country's signature grapes somehow distills the entire character of a huge area into one wine.  On the other hand, I think it is an absolutely ridiculous idea.

Take France for example (as I am currently sampling "F1" - for France) in Phinney's new Locations series.  This wine is a blend of Grenache from the Roussillon, Syrah from the Rhône and "assorted Bordeaux varietals".  It does not seem to be vintage designated, although 2011 was their first vintage so I imagine that's what I'm drinking.  (The label is like those stickers Europeans put on their cars to say what country they're from... cute.  But there's no vintage to be found, and relatively little other information, for that matter.)

So, the thing is, of course France is a huge and significant winemaking country with a storied history.  Grapes that grow in the northern areas are not typically blended with grapes that grow in the southern areas, with good reason.  They are signatures even of their sub-regions.  Northern Rhône - Syrah is king.  Grenache is very successful in the South of France.  Bordeaux varieties - well, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns on the Left bank and Merlot on the Right, but I imagine this could include Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and even Malbec.  Someone deciding to smush these all together is plain CUH-RAZY.

Well, you know what they say about genius and crazy... they kind of go hand in hand.
So the real question is: does it work?

Wineaux, I'm not going to say that this is the best wine I've ever had in my entire life, but I will grant you this: yes, it's pretty tasty.

I am getting the spice from the Syrah, the black fruit from the Grenache, and the Cabernet Sauvignon's structure for sure.  The wine is dense and complex, if a little fumble-y in the mouth.  I love the violet and lavender florals but they kind of butt heads against the ripe strawberry jam and meaty notes.   This wine makes me wonder how the whole process went down - my wine-nerdiness wants to know about harvesting and vinification - but the result is a pretty big, relatively interesting French red for around $16, so who can complain about that?

Ultimately, I would recommend this wine, especially for its value, but I remain wary of the gimmick.  It remains a clever idea, but the jury is still out if this experiment truly works.

FYI - Phinney also makes a Spanish offering - "E 1" - that I will attempt to seek out, and is at work on an Italian example.  (THAT one I'm very curious to try!  Let's blend Nebbiolo and Sangiovese and Aglianico and Nero d'Avola and and and?!?! Hm...)

I remain on the fence - I love the gall in attempting this, but wonder if Phinney should have put down the proverbial Oenophile Crack Pipe before embarking on this odd odyssey.  It's at least worth a try, so seek it out and let me know what you think!  I'd love to hear what your experiences are.

Cheers!