THE TASTE OF TERROIR Featuring WILLIAMS SELYEM 2006 Pinot Noirs

Sometimes a Minx gets very, very lucky, like when a horizontal of the cult favorite Williams Selyem falls into her lap.

(A "horizontal" is a collection of wines from the same producer and the same vintage but with different designations. The more typical "vertical" tasting moves through the same producer but different vintages. Well, neither are really that typical in the grand scheme of things, but an opportunity to taste a horizontal is pretty darn rare!)

I quickly lured a bunch of folks over to taste with me, all intrigued by the concept; with all other things being equal—winemaker, grape variety, vintage—would it be possible to taste the difference in terroir?

The word "terroir" can be a little tricky for Wineaux to explain. To some it merely means the land where the wine is grown, but I prefer a larger scope to define it; the soil, the climate conditions, elevation, aspect (angle of the slope, if any, the vines are planted on,) the history of the area, the winemaker's influence, and so on.

Williams Selyem, located in Sonoma, CA, sources fruit from three different Estate-owned vineyards, and eighteen different grower vineyards, and I had my little hands on seven of their bottlings from 2006. While Sonoma may not be quite as famous as its next-door-neighbor Napa, savvy Wineaux know there is a lot of brilliance to be found there, especially when one is looking for terroir variation.

(Someone once told me that if Napa was like the relatively small, prestigious region of Bordeaux, then Sonoma was akin to the entire rest of France in terms of its diverse terroir.)

Our first flight were the three wines of the group from blended vineyards. We started with the 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, which was bright and flirty with red cherry and pomegranate notes. With fruit from Drake, Coastlands, Hirsch, and Peay vineyards, it was pleasant, but lacked the complexity and personality of those that followed. ($42) [All prices are winemaker's stated release prices.]

The 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Russian River Valley immediately illustrated the difference in terroir expression, with its earthier notes of bacon, game, and forest floor, with ripe plums and notable acidity. Fruit from Drake, Allen, Flax, Rochioli, Bucher, and Litton vineyards. Delish! ($45)

The group's hands-down favorite from Flight #1 was the 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Westside Road Neighbors. A blend from Allen, Baciagalupi, Bucher, Flax, and Rochioli, it was lip-smackingly tasty, with tons of florals, especially rose petals, and big blueberry flavor. Dense, chewy, complex, and just So. Darn. Tasty. ($65)

Some of you detail-oriented Wineaux may be thinking, "Sounds good so far, but it's 2015—I'd think 2006s would be a little long in the tooth, right?" While it's true that these wines have almost certainly mellowed with their age, the quality of the fruit and the pedigree of the winery have them showing beautifully. I wouldn't hold on to Pinots from this era for much longer, but given the unanimous enthusiasm of the tasters, they're still going strong.

On to Flight #2—all single-vineyard selections.

I really enjoyed the 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard, with its combo of silky, sexy licorice, and spicy vanilla, caramel, and earth. As I was answering questions, I realized I had slurped mine all up without even noticing! So scrumptious. A perfect example, I think, of how the wine's elements have integrated stunningly over time in the bottle. ($54)

The 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard was intriguing for its feminine floral perfume, notes of lilac, truffle, and bright ripe cherry. One taster piped up, "I have to say, I was not a big fan of Pinots until right now—the variety, richness, and complexity of these wines is amazing. No idea it could be like this." ($69)

Part of the difficulty in combating preconceptions like that is a wide disparity of Pinots on the market and other factors that keep them out of reach of most consumers. Old world gems from Burgundy can be outrageously expensive, and well-regarded PNs from the US often command high prices, while availability is low. The "Sideways" movie's backlash doesn't help—sales of Merlot plummeted while lower-quality Pinot rushed into the market to capitalize on the influence one character's opinion had on a slew of wine drinkers.

Not that I'm trying to turn you all into cult-worshipers, but this tasting certainly confirms that pedigree and talent are worth seeking out and paying for!

Next up was the group's favorite of the whole evening: the 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard. An intoxicating, amazing nose of purple fruit and florals, kirsch, and sasparilla, it also had flavors of bourbon and blackberry on its long finish. Chewy. So tasty. Just—wow. ($54)

Finally, the 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Riochioli Riverblock Vineyard. Alas, this wine seemed off—not corked or cooked, per se—just muted and dumb in the bottle. I do hope to try another one of this vineyard designation, as I'm sure ours was a fluke of bottle variation, and the winemaker's notes make it sound delicious and voluptuous. While we all agreed this bottle wasn't up to par, it did exhibit notes of cocoa, licorice, and tart red fruit, and was totally finished off by the end of the night! ($75)

So the answer to "can you taste 'terroir?'" was a resounding "YES!!!!" from all of our sippers. Everyone in the group, from relative neophyte to wine professional, was knocked out by the range of different expressions. Many were shocked to discover the depth of flavor found in most of the wines, and now might have an idea why Pinot inspires such fervor in its fans. I for one couldn't have been more pleased to have had this opportunity, and will certainly seek out other horizontal tastings as often as possible!

Cheers.

PINOT PLEASURES CALI-STYLE

Pinot Noir is such an interesting wine.  Forget the praise heaped on it by Miles, the persnickety oenophile in Alexander Payne's movie "Sideways" if you can (his monologue about the notoriously difficult-to-grow grape was really about... himself) - with all of the Wineaux out there who love Pinot Noir, I've never heard one wax quite as rhapsodic.

You see, PN can be a bit of a conundrum.  First of all, there are the two main "styles:" Old World, like the Pinots from Burgundy with austere, elegant earthiness, and New World from the US and New Zealand which shower you with bright fruit; it is a grape that is known to reflect its terroir very specifically.  But you also have producers tailoring their wines to mimic different styles, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to tell a Pinot's precise origin from what is in your glass.

So can one generalize about Pinot?  Perhaps only to say that it is a lighter-bodied red (except when it's not) with a fair amount of acidity (except when it hasn't) that comes in a number of diverse styles but is often pretty darn quaffable.  Pinot is also a born 'food wine' due to its acidity and lighter weight.

At a recent Pinot Days event I sampled a number of wines from California producers of PN.  (The organizers crowed there was an array of Pinots from the Pacific Northwest and New Zealand on hand as well, but the majority were from CA.)  It always makes me laugh when trade event brochures have NO room to write notes, which explains why my following reviews are über concise.  I sought out some of my favorite producers, as well as a few new to me.  (Starred entries are standouts.)

Belle Glos is a perennial favorite - they make PNs from a number of standout sub-regions in California. You can't miss the distinctive wax capsules which actually meander down half of the bottle in a smear of luscious rich red.

*2012 Belle Glos Dairyman Pinot Noir Russian River Valley: lavender florals, strawberry, cherry pie - I wrote, "WOW - YUM."  ~$43

2012 Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands: Herby nose, velvety fruit, very spicy! Long length. ~$40

*2012 Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir Santa Barbara: Dark berry syrup, clove.  Outrageously smooth and elegant, yet rich.  ~$39

It is believed that Buena Vista Winery is the oldest commercial winery in the US.  (At least Wikipedia believes it!)  Located in Sonoma, CA - prime Pinot territory - they make a wide array of wines, from Chardonnay to Zinfandel and much more in-between, including these PNs with great quality at an affordable price.

*2012 Buena Vista Pinot Noir Sonoma: Light cherry berry, bright and pleasant, nice easy finish.  Super choice for those who crave a smooth, delicious wine without too much structure. ~$13

2009 Buena Vista Pinot Noir Carneros: Earth, bramble fruit, zingy acidity, elegant and crisp. ~$20

DeLoach Vineyards is a Russian River Valley producer who zeroes in on the three main grapes that thrive there - Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and our friend Pinot Noir.  

2012 DeLoach Pinot Noir Russian River Valley: Round fruit on the nose, sour fruit, good acidity. ~$19

*2010 DeLoach Pinot Noir Russian River Valley/Green Valley: Expressive fruit, lovely integrated components, good fruit/acid balance and nice weight. ~$39

2010 DeLoach OFS ("Our Finest Selection") Pinot Noir Russian River Valley: great nose, merdy terroir, darker berry fruit, clean, elegant. ~$33

Founded by the namesake Texan who played frontiersmen Davey Crockett and Daniel Boone in the 50s and 60s, Fess Parker has emerged as a pioneering winery in many ways.  Strong family lineage, entrepreneurial drive, and high quality earmark this winery.

2010 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills: Robust fruit and flowers, black raspberries, very smooth. ~$22

2011 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard: Super perfumey, little spice, juicy, not too long a finish. ~$48

*2010 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Ashley's: Lots of fruit, spice and earth, elegantly integrated, very lovely. ~$40

As a sucker for anything bubbly, I was hoping that I'd find one of their signature sparkling wines at the Gloria Ferrer table, but not this time!  (As you may know, Pinot Noir is one of the red grapes often used in making Champagne, and many US sparkling producers who make wines in the methode champenoise style use it to great success as well.)  However, I was very interested to try some of their varietal Pinots.

2008 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir Etesian: Styled for by-the-glass consumption, very earthy, light yet solid. ~$16

*2010 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir Carneros: Lots of floral perfume, little bit of earth, tasty in the mouth, nice balance, not too big. ~$20

A colleague insisted I go by the Hilliard Bruce Winery table.  Speaking with winemaker John Hilliard, I was impressed by his dedication to making his winery sustainable.  He mentioned that after transitioning from an Organic production to Certified Sustainable, he has actually reduced his emission numbers, and passionately stated, "Greenhouse gases are the biggest threat to mankind." (He was also a bit of a rebel, pouring a Chardonnay at a Pinot Noir event!)  But it was a great visit:

*2011 Hilliard Bruce Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills: Incredible nose, mountain florals, lemon curd, green apple, wow, very very crisp, low oak, pretty atypical Chard. ~$45

*2010 Hilliard Bruce Sun Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills: Blackberry stem and florals on the nose, lots of raspberry, smooth, elegant and rich but not overpowering. ~$55

Another well-respected winery is Landmark Vineyards, located in Sonoma.  They also have a wonderful Chardonnay and make some wines with Rhône varietals, but their Burgundian-style Pinots are standouts.  The cursive script on the label speaks to the bibliophile in me - I feel like these wines are about to tell me a story.

2012 Landmark Pinot Noir Overlook: Interesting lavender nose, violets too.  Tangy and rich, black fruits and spice.  ~$26

2011 Landmark Pinot Noir Grand Detour: Robust nose, berries and cola.  Lots of acidity.  Little unbalanced finish but lengthy with great acidity - needs food! ~$35

*2011 Landmark Pinot Noir Solomon Hills: Small production - 150 cases.  Noticeable earthy terroir, dense flavors, fruit, floral, cinnamon/clove, but still very very light and elegant.  Mmmm. ~$55

All in all, the variety and quality of PNs coming from California remain pretty consistent.  I find you do have to search around at a higher price point to really get good quality (many sub-$20 CA Pinots are one-dimensional, which is why the Buena Vista Sonoma was a nice surprise.) But if you're ready to browse around at that level, you will certainly find many exciting wines that definitely support Miles' ardor!

Cheers.

SWE SUPERLATIVES...

Fellow Wineaux, I have just returned from a week in Rhode Island at the Society of Wine Educators' annual conference.  A whirlwind of wines, to be sure.  I estimate I sampled around 200 wines, and will be reporting on much of what I encountered.  Know that I will gladly suffer daily purple tongue and teeth on your behalf, Wineaux, and keep your eyes peeled for the fruits of my labor.

But I have to give you a little tease, now, don't I?  (The answer is: Yes, I do.)

I've awarded my version of "Most Likely to Succeed" and "Best Smile" to some of the wines and regions that truly leapt to the forefront.  Read on...

Sexiest Wine: 2009 Spice Route Pinotage
Forget about traditional descriptors, this wine basically takes you over in the corner and bites your earlobe.  Drinking it is a visceral experience that is sensuous, pulse-quickening, and maybe a little naughty. It certainly cast a spell on me and may cause me to make rash decisions in the name of lust.

Best Bang-for-the Buck: 2009 Ch. Peyraud Premieres Côtes de Blaye 
The Right Bank of Bordeaux's relatively new "Côtes" region is producing some absolute stunners, at a true fraction of typical Bordeaux pricing.  And this little gem in particular is a must-buy at only $11.99.

Best RI Wine: 2005 Sakonnet "Blanc de Blanc"
Fresh, clean, relatively inexpensive, a lovely aperitif and a bit of a shocker as I was expecting next to nothing from RI vineyards.  (No offense.)


Consistent Performer: TIE - Champagne & Alexander Valley
I may have never met a Champagne I didn't like, but my experience over two different seminars on Champagne was a lovely reminder that the quality control going on over there is pretty darn good these days.  And I have never sampled so many gorgeous reds from Alexander Valley (Sonoma) in a row - the winemakers seem to be engaging in a friendly game of one-upmanship and they are somehow all succeeding.


Change-Your-Mind Winner: NV Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Sublime Demi-Sec
I - and many Wineaux - tend to favor the Brut, or dry, style of Champagne, but this Demi-Sec (nearly the sweetest style in the canon) was perfectly balanced and absolutely gorgeous.  Really.  Give it a try, trust me. 


Favorite Champagne: 2004 Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs
Wow, wow, wow, wowie wow.


Favorite "Secret" Region: Chile's Central Valley
Chile's meteoric rise in quality over the past decade or so will soon make it a favorite wine shop destination for Wineaux if it isn't already.  Keep your eyes peeled for an upcoming and very thorough entry on Chilean wine, coupled from an earlier Wines of Chile event as well as a few seminars this past week.


Chilean Champion: 2008 Casa Lapostalle Clos Apalta Red Blend
Another wine to garner a lot of "wow"s, this is an absolute stunner.

Nummiest Napa: 2006 Heitz Wine Cellar Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
One session on the possible effects of climate change showcased a number of wines from Heitz Wine Cellars and Cain Cellars.  Every single one scored highly with me, but this little lady was the belle of the ball.


Best Wine I'll Probably Never Taste Again: TIE- 1981 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino & 1968 Blandy's Bual Madeira
Although the Banfi was from an iffy vintage, it was just gorgeous, and poured from magnums liberated from their cellar.  (Apparently there are still a few bottles left available for sale at the winery, priced in the 400-600 Euro range, but alas, I don't have a trip to Tuscany pencilled in my calendar anytime soon.) And the Madeira was nectar from the gods, turning this previously Madeira-averse Minx into a convert.  I see on wine-searcher.com that a store in NYC carries it, but it costs $250 and I just don't have that kind of change lying around.  (But maybe the Minx will receive a nice gift for Christmas if she's a good Minx, right Santa?)


I can't wait to share with you more in-depth reporting from the SWE conference.  But I must dash, a scrumptious bottle of vino is calling my name.  Cheers!