TOP 20 UNDER $20 of 2012!!

This is it!  The post you've all been anxiously waiting for!  My annual list of amazing and AFFORDABLE wines is finally here.

I made the list actually 21 this year, since one of my faves might not yet be available in the U.S.  But we get new imports all the time, and it's reallllly good, so I had to include it.  In 2012, it seems as if Spain and Italy (and Washington State!) were the places to go for value finds.  Also I came across a lot of rosés that were outstanding values.  (If you’re not a big rosé drinker, it’s definitely time to start experimenting!  Do not unfairly judge the PINK.)  And my two TOP PICKS were both from Portugal, where I’ve long tried to steer Wineaux to find amazing wines at great values.  I tasted hundreds of different wines this year, always looking for the best bangs for the buck… and here they are.  There’s a little something for everyone, including some slightly more unusual finds.  You know I like “weird” wines, and some of these really show how enjoyable oddballs can be!  Cheers.

WHITE:

2011 Domaine de Belle Vue Sauvignon Gris, Loire, France $14 – Sauv Gris is a Sauv Blanc cousin from the Loire. Gorgeous balance of round mouthfeel and high citrusy acidity.   Pear and lemongrass on nose, minerally with white peach/tangerine in mouth and a grassy finish.  Clean but warm.  Sounds schitzo but isn't!

It sure LOOKS like a European label, doesn't it?
These guys are a little whimsical.
And cheeky.

2011 Independent Producers Dionysus Vineyard Chardonnay, Washington State $14 - Rich & viscous US Chard with no oak but lots of oomph.  Loads of spice and minerality balance the pear and stone fruit flavors.  Very long finish. >>

2010 La Miranda de Secastilla Garnacha Blanca, Viñas del Vero, DO Somontano, Spain $15 - Heady nose of florals and peachy nectar.  Perfectly balanced acidity.  Rich but clean and food friendly.  Loads of fruit and florals.  Yum.

2010 Jed Steele Shooting Star Aligoté, Washington State $16 - Aligoté is the oft-overshadowed second white grape of Burgundy – this one hails from Washington state and is appley/citrusy with a smooooth finish, unusual and verrrry yummy.

ROSÉ:

2011 Viñaluz Rosado, Bodegas Real, Spain $3 - Yes, three dollars.  Granted, I got it on sale (down from a whopping $7,) but either way, this wine is a stupid-crazy value. Bright, rich, great berry/cherry notes, lip-smacking.

NV Dürnberg Brut Sparkling Rosé, Austria $10 - You know I love sparklers. This is made from the red Zwigelt Austrian grape, and is floral and lightly fruity but dry dry dry.  Great for a party! 

2011 Ontañón Vetiver Rosado DOCa Rioja, Spain $12 - Bright pink.  Earth, minerals and strawberry on the nose.  Chewy fruit, not "too sweet" seeming.  Balanced with herby elements and good acidity.  Very nice.

<< 2011 Heredade do Esporão, Defesa Rosé, Portugal $13 – A lot of depth of flavor.  Minerality, berries, a bit of meatiness…  Just fantastic!  It quenches your thirst and yet you race back to the bottle - so satisfying, I could drink it all day.  TOP PICK.

 

2011 Wolffer Rosé $15 from Long Island, NY  Pale salmon pink, with underripe strawberry, minerality, salinity.  Very scrumptious for such a light wine.  Good acidity with florals, bitter herbs, minerals, tart cherries.  Dependable and food-friendly. >>

RED:

2010 Bodegas Real "Nazares" Tempranillo, Spain $6 – The quality of entry level Tempranillos can be tough to navigate; this one is absolutely yummy – especially at this price!  Crafted in a more youthful style for drinking now, it has soft and round berry salad flavors.

2011 Cantina Vallebelbo Sparkling Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG, Italy $12 - light rose and berries with a SLIGHT sweetness, gorgeous balance of herbs and fruit and freshness.  Party wine, easy quaffer, fun and flirty.  Might not yet be available in the US.  (I’m working on it!)

<< 2011 Edgebaston The Pepper Pot, South Africa $13 – A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Grenache, Tannat, AND Viognier, this inky red is rich and spicy with loads of pepper and dark fruits.  Structured, but smooooth – and, dare I say, sexy?!  Pretty heavy-duty but not overpowering, and a bit unusual.

2009 Cortes de Cima Red, Portugal $15 – Dark fruits, good integrated tannins, rich and full but velvety.  Very nice - this is so huge, it cries out for food!  This blend of Syrah, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet is a great value.  TOP PICK.

2007 Martínez Lacuesta Crianza DOCa Rioja, Spain $16 - Spicy!  Smoky, good fruit, meaty with lush ripe cherry.  Good balance of fruit and earthier elements, and a nice finish.  

Sorry about the candle wax - I had this on hand
when the lights went out during Hurricane Sandy.

2010 Montalbera Grignolino d'Asti, Italy $17 - Unusual color, pale orangey/brick-y.  Cherry cola nose, wonderfully strange!  Light but complex flavors of black cherry, some herbs and a bit peppery.  Good acid and yet smooth.  So interesting and unusual - Pinot Noir fans must try! >>

<< 2008 Weinhof Scheu Pinot Noir, Germany $17 – Riesling is the star in Germany, but this Pinot is a lovely find.  Incredibly light seeming but with a strong presence of cherry, earth, pepper and tea rose floral notes.

2011 Conti di Buscareto Lacrima di Morro D'Alba, Italy $18 - Not the Alba in Piedmont, but in Marche.  Dark bright magenta.  Florals - lavender, roses!  Very smooth, super light acidity, hint of supple tannins.  Violets and dark cherries in mouth.  Kind of like a Beaujolais Gamay... but not at all like it too!

2010 Mas des Chimères Oeillade Languedoc, France $19 - A meaty earthiness with dusty spice on the nose, this 100% Grenache has dark berries, minerals, a hint of charcoal, rose, smoked meat and herbs.  Medium-bodied, but spicy richness and long length in the mouth.  Bring on the funk.

The Barbera on this list is on the left.
Alas the Barbera on the right is NOT under $20. 

2010 Qupé Syrah Central Coast, California $19 - Very herbalicious!  Lots of rosemary, light, yet very well-structured.  It's hard to find a “Rhône Ranger” Syrah with this much personality at this price point.

2009 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne, Italy $19 - CHERRY! Black cherry liqueur, herbs and cola.  Very perfumey in mouth, bright crunchy forward fruit.  Good tart acidity but smooth finish.  Somewhat of a masculine style from vineyards abutting legendary Barolo. >>

Well, Wineaux, there you have it.  Please let me know if you try any of these amazing finds!  And always let me know if you come across some superb under-$20 values yourself... everyone's wallet will thank you.

Cheers!

THE SEXIEST WINE EVER?!?

I have this weird "thing" with Amarone... I always forget how much I positively ADORE great Amarone until it's time to taste it again.  Maybe this is good - great Amarone is not cheap, and I am currently on a bit of a budget.  However, a recent tasting sponsored by Wine Spectator magazine may have catapulted Amarone back in my brain, this time for good. 

Amarone [Ah-mah-ROHN-ay]  is made in northeast Italy, in the Valpolicella region of Verona.  There is a small consortium of winemakers who have banded together as the "Amarone Families" in order to preserve the historical, family-oriented wine production in the region.  Certain other winemakers have sacrificed quality with over-production and trying to secure a lower price point for their wines, and the Amarone Families are working hard to preserve the quality and stature of Amarone in the world wine ideology.

They impose strict regulations on themselves beyond what is required by law, they encourage multiple generations of their own families to be involved, and they strive to make Amarone "with love, as an art," says Sandro Boscaini of Masi Agricola.

What makes Amarone special is the appassimento process; after harvest, the grapes are laid out to dry for many weeks or months before pressing, which concentrates the flavors immensely.  The primary grapes used in Amarone - Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara - are rarely found outside the region, with other indigenous grapes allowed in the blend.  There is somehow a perfect storm of factors which is impossible to replicate elsewhere; the grapes, the way they reflect their terroir, and how they are so perfectly suited to the drying process.  The resulting wine is bold, voluptuous, smooth yet with good acidity, and has the ability to age for 25-35 years or more.  And man, is it sexy.

For the tasting, we took a twenty-year journey back in time to the late 1980s, which is when Amarone really started showing up on the radar for American Wineaux.

Our first wine was the 2007 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie DOC.  It had a heady floral perfume, with a strong nose of cherries.  On the palate, it was elegant and smooth, concentrated yet bright, with an incredibly long finish.  The fruit and integrated structure were so appealing, I wanted to drink the whole glass down!  ($95)

Next, we had the 2006 Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOC.  With a nose of dried-cherry syrup and wet leaves, it had lots of structure and smooth tannins.  The flavors of dried fruit, spice, and an herby finish were quite strong, yet it remained smooth and elegant.  ($50)

The 2005 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli DOC had loads of perfume and black cherry liqueur on the nose.  This wine was dense, rich, and smooth with mocha powder, light herbs, dried black cherry fruit and smooth tannins.  ($70)

Number four was the 2004 Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classio Monte Cà Bianca DOC.  This showed sexy florals and herbs on the nose.  While somewhat lighter than the previous wines, it was incredibly smooth with strong lavender notes, and had firm tannins and good acidity. ($N/A)

Bottles of Amarone earmarked for the tasting.

From the extraordinarily hot summer of 2003, the 2003 Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC had intoxicating mountain florals, rosemary and other herbs on the nose.  HUMONGOUS and dense, this was packed with lush, jammy red fruit.  Its subtle structure nonetheless stood up to such outrageous fruit components.  Yum. ($75 for present vintage.)

I also loved the 2001 Venturini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC/DOP.  With a nose of cherries and an interesting lentil note, it was fresh, light, and fruity with very good acidity.  This easily quaffable wine had flavors of bright red cherries and raspberries, and had a friendly and charming personality.  For a wine with this age, it seemed quite youthful. ($N/A)

Our next wine came from a magnum - they have very few bottles left of this vintage - which presumably has helped it age so well.  The 2000 Nicolis "Ambrosan"Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC showed dried cherry liqueur and wet leaves on the nose.  It was luxurious in the mouth, with some herbs and dried flowers, yet still quite bright fruit.  "Soooo silky/sexy!" I wrote.  ($110 bt/$225 mag.)

If I had to choose a favorite, it might be the 1998 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato DOC.  Strong nose of wet leaves and cigar leaf, bit of meatiness, licorice and herbs.  The mouth was a bowlful of black fruits, with some mushroom and licorice.  There were so many complex elements, and it was incredibly robust with a long, balanced finish. ($N/A)  Mr. Alberto Zenato suggested pairing it with a pumpkin risotto, and I almost started drooling.

Or maybe my favorite was the 1997 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC.  It had notes of charcoal and blackberry liqueur on the nose, and the palate of dense, dark berries was outrageously smooth, like a silk robe, with a long, soft finish.  I did indeed write, "This wine is turning me on!" while peeking at my neighbors to see if they were getting flushed as well.  (Not likely available, but ~$150)

From one of the best Amarone vintages of the century, the 1995 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC showed strong wet leaves on the nose.  It was light, though velvety and elegant.  There still was good fruit, though minerally notes were starting to show.  An incredibly long finish with nice earthy structure.  ($NA)

Another classic vintage was 1990, and the 1990 Masi Agricola Mazzano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC was exactly what I expected from a stellar aged Amarone.  Nose of earth, leaves, prune, some barnyard and forest floor.  On the mouth, meaty and leather notes, plus some serious truffle.  Powerful yet elegant with a smooth, long finish.  ($300)

Finally (and boy, I didn't want this to end!) we had the 1988 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano DOC.  Those great aged notes of mushroom, earth, dried figs and truffle.  In the mouth, still great cherry fruit expression, with dried salami, licorice and chocolate.  Super silky and still feels very bright.  ($300)

After the tasting, the Amarone Families producers poured a number of recent vintages for us to sample as well.  I went through my notes looking for "yum"s to share some favorites:

2007 Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Cà Biance DOC - pine-y, floral, herbs nose, very berry and bright, yum. ($50)

2007 Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC - bright red fruit, yummy!  Good balance, dense but quaffable.  ($45)

2007 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano DOC - heady perfume of florals and berry fruits, stemmy, herby, dense and robust, pretty tannic.  Yum. ($65)

2006 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella 'Campo dei Gigli' DOC - mushroom, licorice, red fruit and florals on the nose... very smooth and dense, lots of robust fruit, big but soft.  Yum. ($45)

2001 Tommasi Ca'Florian Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC - mushroom, merde nose, light, elegant, soft red fruit, great length and balance.  Lovely.  ($50)

These Amarones were rich and smooth, and drinkable and well-structured, a kind of contradiction that might not make a lot of sense.  But I can tell you, it is worth it to seek out wines from the Amarone Families.  For more information about their wines, visit http://www.amaronefamilies.it.  By the way, all member-produced wines will have this logo somewhere on the capsule or label:

Once you've sampled these luxurious and sensual wines, you might agree with me that Amarone is, quite possibly, the sexiest wine ever.  Cheers!

Wine Bar Crawl, Destination #3

A few weeks ago, I embarked on an ambitious journey with fellow Wineaux Carol: visit four NYC wine bars in one night.  After lovely experiences at TURKS AND FROGS and THE UPHOLSTERY STORE, we meandered over to CENTRO VINOTECA, located at the bustling intersection of 7th Avenue S and Barrow Street.

Immediately the difference in ambiance between our prior two stops and this one struck us, as we snagged the last two seats at an extremely crowded bar.  At this point we were ready to order some dinner but as our plans for the entire evening were vague, we hadn't made a reservation.  I suppose in one sense we were lucky to get seats at all.  Unfortunately, the party directly to my right had no sense of space, and I was rudely jostled throughout the entire meal.  No fun.

In all fairness, I suppose I should return to Centro Vinoteca during a quieter time, as the craziness was the root of my dissatisfaction with the place.  The food was very good - both Carol and I sampled different pastas - and the wine list was nicely focused, with over thirty Italian wines available by the glass.  (I should say by the quartino, for at Centro Vinoteca, the pour is measured out to a vessel slightly over a glass.)

But our bartender Connor was slammed with patrons, and when I pronounced the first wine we were tasting as corked, he rather fussily agreed with my assessment, seeming put out at the need to remedy the situation.  Then, after opening another bottle, he poured it immediately without offering a taste.  Bad form, in my opinion, no matter how crowded the bar.

[It is unfortunate that many people mistake the off-odor of 2, 4, 6 - Trichloroanisole (TCA) as merely an unpleasant note in the wine.  In reality, it is a by-product of the cork bleaching process and can happen to any wine stopped with a traditional cork.  Some people are more sensitive to TCA than others, and while it is in a Wineaux's best interest to learn to properly identify this cork taint, is is also the responsibility of the server to acquiesce to his customer.]

Luckily, the second pour of 2009 Bolgheri Rosso Scire was fine, with a nose of cherries, and blueberry pie filling, herbs, rosemary and a hint of prune on the palate.  It was warm and rich with a nice finish and good body. [88]

We also tasted the 2009 Colline del Sole Aglianico, which had a nose of roasted meats, and cherry pie and violets in the mouth.  It was bright, but balanced with a good earthiness on the finish. [86]

With the crowd, noise level and nudgy neighbors, we couldn't wait to get out of there.  But I'm not ready to completely write off Centro Vinoteca just yet.  On Mondays they have half-price bottles, and are offering a five-course wine tasting dinner on Sundays this summer, so I expect I will give it another go and cross my fingers for a more relaxed, wine-focused experience.

Centro Vinoteca - 74 Seventh Avenue S, NYC ~ 212-367-7470 ~ www.centrovinoteca.com