TOP 25 UNDER $25 OF 2019!!!!!

My dear Wineaux: my annual “Top 20 Under $20” is so popular (thank you!) I’ve been pondering for a few years now to stretch the budget to $25. Merely because there are SO many extraordinary gems in the $20-25 range, and, frankly, if you’re gonna drop $18, 19, 20 on a wine, a few more bucks is NOTHING, amiright?It’s all about the value, whether it’s five or twenty-five, so enjoy this expanded edition. Tell me what you think about these wines, and if you find other budget-loving faves!

BUBBLY:

2014 Cerro Chapeu Sust Brut Nature, Uruguay

Folks, Uruguay is where it’s AT! Wines from this South American country are exponentially rising in quality. Take this floral, yeasty, citrus, tropical, exotic fruit-ed sparkler from 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. It spent 36 months on the lees. Dense and herby, this is refreshing and concentrated. What an eye-opener! ~$22

2018 Ch. Peybonhomme L’Amour du Risque, Bordeaux France

This is a Pètillant Naturel from Bordeaux, which makes it kind of a unicorn. (I could put it under "orange" below, but its zesty froth seems bubblier than usual for a Pèt-Nat, so here it goes!) Melon, orange rind, ginger ale, great presence and quaffability, just really tasty, and I could probably suck down the bottle in one minute. ~$22

NV Jacqueline Leonne Rosé Methode Champenoise, New Mexico

From the folks at Gruet, this is another New Mexican bubbly direct to Total Wine. This rosé is elegant, with attractive flavors of strawberry, lime, and herbs. Great value! Slurp this one up all year round, but especially in summer. ~$17

NV Cleto Chiarli Pruno Nero Lambrusco, Italy

I love a Lambrusco; gone are the days of those sicky-sweet red sparklers from central Italy. This is dry, relatively low alcohol (11%,) with velvety blackberry jam, violets, and a pleasant mossy dirt scenario. Totally quaffable, refreshing, and delish. Yummers! ~$17

WHITE:

 

2018 Garzón Albariño Reserva, Uruguay

Yup, another Uruguayan wine made the list. Spain’s Albariño really shines here, with dusty florals, light white peach, chewy stone fruit in the mouth, and a grippy texture from a little oak contact. Interesting wine, with a great, balanced length. This winery only started in 2009 and is already a standard-bearer. Watch out! ~$17

2017 Trapiche Costa & Pampa Albariño, Argentina

Look at this: another Albariño NOT from Spain! Trapiche is the leading wine-making group in Argentina, but that doesn’t mean this is mass-market at all. Basket of mountain flowers, tart green fruit, but really cheeky and nice, plus its juicy, steely acid keeps it driving. Whiff of petrol, some salinity. Delish. ~$20

2018 Ch. Peybonhomme Les Tours Le Blanc Bonhomme Blaye Ct. du Bdx, France

(I just realized that Peybonhomme has TWO wines that cracked the list, I don’t think that’s ever happened before! Bravo, team.) 50-50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon. Interesting nose! Pear, almost oxidized/sherry thing. This sees some barrel fermentation, which adds a creamy/honeyed character. Nice weight, still light and fresh but different personality. Kind of love this! Long finish. Great value at ~$14.

2014 Vini Mura “Sienda” Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG, Sardinia

(Ok, including this is NOT fair because I sampled one of the last FOUR bottles left of this wine in the world, sorrynotsorry. But it was just tops, and maybe you’ll run into one of its relatives!!) Yellow and white flowers, whiff of petrol, weighty, textured, like a sun-baked afternoon on the beach. Spicy finish. Solid acid and light tannins from oak aging and 15 days skin contact. Creamy, heady. Delish. Love. ~$20

2018 Bodegas Etchart Cafayate Gran Linaje Torrontés, Argentina

More deliciousness from Argentina, here from the oldest operating winery in Cafayate, and the country’s “signature” white grape. Very pale, water-white color. Gewurztraminer-like nose, with its super-aromatic rose petals. Nice grip and weight, good tang. Floral and little bitter, but really super-duper tasty! ~$25

2018 Contra Soarda Vespaiolo, Veneto Italy

Cool indigenous variety of Veneto in NE Italy; named for the wasps (“vespa”) that would feed on the ripe grapes. This old variety used to make sun-dried-grape “Passito” wines, now its modern table wines are really compelling; bruised pear, overripe peach, barnyardy funk, like an ugly-sexy Mick Jagger in a glass. Fans of Grüner Veltiner will be interested. ~$20

ORANGE:

2018 Dom. Glinavos Paleokerisio, Greece

I don’t order the list anymore, but if I did, this would probably be my #1. I always love an orange wine (which is really just a white wine with skin contact, so they tend to have an orange-ish hue, plus tannins from the time on skins.) But this one’s just special all-around: it is 1) slightly sparkling 2) skin-contact 3) from indigenous Greek grapes 4) that has a hint of sweetness. Whaat? That little residual sugar balances the bitterness gorgeously, and the slight fizz and festive fruit make a party in your mouth. The value can’t be beat, and I’ve yet to meet a person who didn’t fall in love with this wacky yet approachable gem. ~$13/500ml

ROSÉ:

2018 Muri Gries Lagrein Rosato, Italy

From Alto Adige in northeastern Italy, this wine proves that rosé is not just for summer! It’s bright pinky-red and is bursting with red cherry-berry fruit, fresh florals, plus savory herbs, salinity, and a hint of balsamic. It is so tasty you should probably just go ahead and get two bottles because it’ll be gone before you know it. ~$16

2018 Lange Twins Winery & Vineyards Aglianico Rosé, Lodi CA

Lodi is the region of 100 grapes. Truth! Pretty much any grape grows stunningly there, and Aglianico of southern Italy is no exception. The deep garnet-y pink hue of this wine may turn off some used to the paleness of Provence rosés, but Aglianico is a thick-skinned, dark grape variety so it makes a powerful rosé! No wimps allowed here, with super SHPICY rose petals and raspberry-strawberry fruit. Yum. ~$20 

2018 Amity Vineyards White Pinot Noir, Oregon

I put this as a rosé though they call it “white,” but, to me, a white wine from red grapes is “rosé,” but let’s not worry about semantics! Oregon is a perfect home for Pinot Noir, and this is made from some of the oldest vines in the state. There is white peach, underripe strawberry, and also lush tropical fruit (melon, pineapple,) with a tangy salinity to balance it. Tasty and intriguing. ~$23

2018 Channing Daughters Rosato of Cabernet Franc, New York

Ironically, I’m out on Long Island as I put the finishing touches on this post, and here’s a wine from a stone’s throw away! I typically love Channing Daughters wines, and this pale pink rosé of Cab Franc is elegant and floral-perfumey with pink grapefruit, spiced watermelon, and a minerally underlayer. Num, num, num. ~$17

2018 Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rosé Maimbray, Loire France

From France’s Loire Valley, touted as a blanc de noir still wine, this is tart yet juicy, with a pleasant whiff of smoke, berries with herbs, ooh, just tightly wound fruit wrapped in a lightly tannic and fresh acidic embrace, with a grippy, nicely balanced finish. ~$22

RED:

2016 Clos Martinet “Menut” Priorat, Spain

This Garnacha from Spain is simply amaze. Blueberries and ripe blackberries JUMP out of the glass, with a nice brambly funk to balance the fruit. Add Dr. Pepper, milk chocolate, bushels of lavender and violets, and a firmly present but not overbearing structure, and I couldn’t keep my hands offa this. Garnacha can get alky, but while this wine’s 15% alcohol is up there, it doesn’t feel “hot” or put you to sleep. Fruit-lovers will faint. YUMMERS. ~$22

2017 Domaine D’Andezon Côtes du Rhône Unfiltered, France

This Southern France Syrah-based red blend is teeming with blackberry, dark plum, and blueberry fruit, bushels of purple flowers, a hint of dark chocolate, and some rock dust minerality. It’s powerful, but also tempered by its lifting acidity and excellently balanced tannins. The finish goes on and on. And on! ~$14

2017 FP by Filipa Pato Baga, Bairrada Portugal

Really interesting nose of smoke, chalk, mocha, purple flowers and lavender, lil’ barnyard funk... but juicy-tangy and fresh in the mouth, very quaffable, purple-y cheekiness but subtlety well-structured. (I botched a question about Portugal’s Baga grape on my very first wine exam, you know I won’t do that again!) ~$17

2016 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley Chile

This Carmenère (a grape long-confused with Merlot,) from Chile is smoky and spicy with dense red fruit, aromatic lilac, mocha and dried herbs, but is smooth to drink, with balanced acid and soft tannins. Extra points cus it’s sustainably dry farmed (!) from a reputable producer who has an array of tasty wines (including the more $$ Purple Angel.) ~$21

2016 Mettler Family Pinotage, CA

Even though this is another Lodi wine, and I know global grapes shine there, I have never had a Pinotage NOT from South Africa, so I was understandably wary. Welp, color me pleasantly surprised! This was super-complex and gorgeously balanced; blueberry, mocha, violet florals, with tangy acidity and light, grippy tannins. Intriguing all around. ~$25

2015 Terras de Baco VR Alentejano, Portugal

From indigenous Portuguese grapes Trincadeira, Aragonez, and Castelão, this powerhouse has rich flavors of raspberry, mocha powder, blackberry, a little herb stem, and is tannic and HEAVY duty. For FIVE BUCKS. (See, this balances out the $25 ones!) Definitely needs meat/cheese, or it might knock you over. Wowzers. ~$5

2006 Château Simard, St-Émilion, France

Um, seriously, a killer 13-year old Bordeaux for around twenty bucks?!? Whaaaat? Gorgeous nose of lavender florals and spice box dust, with lush fruit on palate, and tannins that are smoothing out but still quite supportive. There are values to be found in Bordeaux, but it takes a lot to search them out; here is the needle in the haystack for sure! ~$21

2018 Alpha Crucis “Titan” Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale, Australia

Yes, Australia and Shiraz are like Bert and Ernie or Mac and Cheese; they just go together. But when you branch out a bit, you can also find genius. This Oz Cab tastes like it cost two or three times as much, and delivers dark fruits, cedar, graphite, and violets. Dense and huge, but elegant. Not overly tannic but solid support; this is exactly why I stretched the budget this year! ~$25

2017 Raul Perez Bierzo Mencia Ultreia Saint Jacques, Spain

Mencia is a great grape for wine lovers – it typically exhibits blue-black fruits, violets, and maybe a mocha chalkiness, but has lovely fresh acid which keeps it from getting too heavy. This is a field blend with Bastardo and Garnacha Tintorera, plus some white grapes to boot, which keeps the focus on crunchy blueberry/cranberry fruit and heady florals, supported by bright acid and subtle, linear tannins.  ~$20

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There you go, friends! Did I whet your whistles? What did I miss? Post below and tell me about some incredible-valued wines YOU sipped on during 2019.

There might have been a lot of unfamiliar grapes, places, and styles above, but I exhort you (as I always do!) to add "Branch Out My Wine Exploration" to your New Year's Resolutions for 2020. One of my FAVORITE things about wine is that there's always something new to discover! I wish you and yours a happy, healthy holiday season, and warm wishes for 2020.

Cheers!

JHUZZH Up Your Turkey Day With These Amazing Wines!

It's that time of the year... all the wine writers' Thanksgiving recommendations! There are a lot of great ones out there, sure, and by all means heed whichever suggestions you want, but let me REALLY break it down for you:

Thanksgiving food is boring. Seriously, without that pop of cranberry, and maybe some green(ish) beans, the entire meal is a neutral palette. Nothing has spice or personality. So your wine has to jhuzzh up the entire feast… without overwhelming it!

This means pretty much any wine that’s not too heavy or overly fruity with gobs of acidity will do the trick — which gives you a LOT of options!!

Here are some of the Minx’s personal faves:

BUBBLY

Kind of a no-brainer. A) it’s a holiday, so let's celebrate! Plus b) the zippy acid and lively bubbles will complement every single kind of delish beige mush on your plate.

SAVE: NV Gruet Blanc de Noirs, New Mexico

A blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, this fizz will have a scootch more round red fruit and depth, while still maintaining its freshness. Plus, it’s from New Mexico, so… ‘Murica! ~$17

SPLURGE: 2004 Dom Ruinart Rosé Champagne, France

This was the “meatiest,” most savory Champy I’ve ever had. (Might be due to an unusually high percentage of still red wine added in? Either way…) Utterly captivating. Roasted orange peels, iodine, fresh herb garden, sweet summer strawberries, toasty brioche, candied ginger, dried rose petals… total splurge, but worth every penny. ~$325

CHARDONNAY

But get a good one. Chard is a kind of neutral grape, but it can sing if coaxed into its own by a deft winemaker. A more mineral-driven, lean style (say Chablis) will vibrate through the meal like a plucked high piano string, while one with more oak influence will bring out the spice of the sweet potato and pies.

SAVE: 2017 Charles Smith Eve Chardonnay, WA

I tell you over and over to snap up Smith’s value offerings because they always deliver! This Washington State Chard ticks all the boxes — fruit, acid, bright but with depth — at a price that can’t be beat. ~$10

SPLURGE: 2015 Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay, CA

Big and round with buckets of rich fruit; peach, apricot, pear, a meadow full of white flowers, some baked apple pie… perhaps a hint of grilled pineapple and some dried herbs  too — this Kistler Chard with a few years of age will be a meal unto itself. ~$65

OTHER WHITES:

I also love a Grüner Veltliner or Furmint for Thanksgiving; they can have savory notes like celery and white pepper or ginger and spice, and both have strong acidic backbones. 

SAVE: 2017 Evolúció Tokaji Furmint, Hungary ~$12

SPLURGE: 2017 FX Pichler M Smaragd Gruner Veltliner, Austria ~$80

ROSÉ

How many times do I have to say it? Rosé is a red wine in a white wine’s body — the best of both worlds! You could literally have ANY quality rosé on Turkey Day and you’ll be happy. I might pop these:

SAVE: 2018 Anthony Road Rosé of Cabernet Franc, NY

This Fingerlakes producer coaxes the perfect balance of red cherry fruit and herbs out of Cab Franc; supremely quaffable all year round. It's so slurp-worthy, I'm drooling just writing this. ~$16

SPLURGE(ISH): 2018 Hersly “Mae” Rosé, CA

100% Merlot, from a small single vineyard in Calistoga, this juicy, vibrant rosé is packed with fruit, yet has plenty of structure to hold it all together. The Herslys are a husband-wife team producing some seriously good juice; this, their first rosé, is named after their sushi-loving dog Mae, who is featured on the label. (She was a rescue, so portions of the sales of this wine go to support animal rescues and shelters!) ~$28

RED

Here’s where the fun happens! Yes, Pinot Noir is the classic high-acid, zesty, cherry-berry and herby-earthy, low-tannin red, and you can find great examples from the Willamette Valley in Oregon or from New Zealand, not to mention the rhapsodic icons of Burgundy. But why not try something a little different this year?

SAVE: 2017 Hillinger Zweigelt, Austria

An Austrian specialty, Zweigelt is a crossing of St-Laurent and Blaufrankish (< also good for Turkey Day!) Like a lighter Pinot Noir, expect spicy cherry notes, maybe a bit of cinnamon. Lip-smaking! ~$16

SAVE: 2015 Pietro Caciorgna Etna Rosso Ciauria, Sicily

Red wines from Sicily’s Mt. Etna region are based on Nerello Mascalese, which thrives in the volcanic soil there. This has crunchy red fruit and great woodsy earth and herbs, buoyed by rose florals. While fresh and invigorating now, it also has serious staying power (grab a few bottles, and see how it evolves next year!) ~$22

SAVE: 2016 Avancia Mencia Cuvee de O, Spain

Mencia is one of those grapes you wonder why everyone doesn’t know about it already. This one is like a bowl of blackberries dusted with mocha powder and black pepper that you eat in a freshly-tilled field. More on the oomphy side, but still kept fresh by its acidity. ~$15

No matter what you decide, I hope you spend a wonderful Thanksgiving with your friends and family. Let me know what you end up popping, and how you enjoyed jhuzzhing up the big meal! 

Cheers.

Beat the Heat with ROSÉ FROM PROVENCE!

Right now, summer has descended, New York City is baking in the heat, and all I can think about is escaping to the seaside with a glass of rosé in hand. While the beach is merely an hour away on the A train, sometimes it's just easier to conjure refreshment by popping over to the wine shop and grabbing a bottle of rosé from Provence!

While great rosé is made all over the world, Provence is where they've mastered the style so many folks find appealing; lots of minerality, good fruit, and a crisp finish. Typically made from the traditional southern French grapes Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault, these are also generally very affordable wines.

I, for one, encourage rosé consumption year-round, but it certainly is enjoyable to cool off with a glass of rosé in the summer heat. And the fact that these are "red wines in a white wine's body" make them amazing to pair with a range of foods, from lobster to a cookout hot dog.

At a recent tasting sponsored by Vins de Provence, "The Taste of Style," I enjoyed a lovely array of the following rosés (there were some whites and reds from the region as well, and I couldn't help but include one DELISH white below.) Enjoy!

2016 Château Barbanau L'Instant Rosé (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah) (Winery is Organic and Biodynamic.)

V pale onion skin. Herby, spicy, white pear, tasty, good balance, ticks fruit and complexity boxes. Quaffable. ~$20 WM: 89

2016 Château Barbanau La Girafe Verte Rosé (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah)

V pale onion skin. Great herbs on nose; tarragon, basil, menthol. Nice fruit, cheeky. ~$18 WM: 92

2016 Mirabeau en Provence Pure Rosé (Grenache, Syrah)

V v pale onion skin. Light fragrant nose, minerally, elegant, clean, good present acidity. ~$25 WM: 90

2016 Mirabeau en Provence Étoile Rosé (Grenache, Syrah)

V v pale silvery onion skin. Fruit forward, peach, melon, good grip, clean and minerally. ~$35 WM: 91

2016 Cep d'Or Rosé (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah)

V pale pink, light but great tastiness and fruit through the finish, green herbs too. ~$16 WM: 88

2016 Château L'Arnaude Cuvée Nuit Blanche Rosé (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan)

V pale peach, good floral perfume, red berries, very dry, a little bitter. ~$NA WM: 86

2016 Château de Pampelonne Rosé (Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Tibouren) 

V pale pink, nice florals, stemmy nose, tasty, elegant, good berries on finish, nice. ~$21 WM: 90

2016 Mas de Pampelonne Rosé (Neighbor of ^) (Grenache, Cinsault, Tibouren) 

V v pale salmon, great nose, florals and berry fruit, minerally, stemmy. ~$18 WM: 89

2016 Fleur de Mer Rosé (Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan)

V pale pink. Raspberry, strawberry, bitter-ish but well-balanced. Tangy minerality. Nice. ~$18 WM: 89

2015 Château Sainte Marguerite Ikon Rosé (Cinsault, Grenache)

V pale onion skin, florals, ripe melon, cherry, slurp. ~$NA WM: 90

2016 Domaine du Dragon Grande Cuvée Rosé (Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Sra, Rolle)

V pale pink. V floral, nice, savory and spicy in mouth. Yum. ~$NA WM: 91

2016 Château Rêva Symphony Rosé (Grenache, Sra, Cinsault)

V pale pinky salmon, nice acidity, savory, tart red fruit. ~$NA WM: 89

And the DELICOUS white:

2016 Château Sainte Marguerite Symphony (Rolle)

Pale silvery-gold. Lemony nose, whiff of smoke. Tight and lemon-limey with great herb, tarragon. 7-UP-y Clean, tangy, grassy, herby, minerally, so delish. ~$27 WM: 93

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As the mercury continues hovering at the top of the thermometer, believe me, I'll be drinking a lot more rosé. Keep your eyes here for more posts on delicious rosés from all over the world! Post in the comments with your favorite rosés, from Provence or elsewhere. and share the wealth!

Cheers.

TOO DARN HOT? Warm-Weather Wines.

Get me on a boat, it's HOT!

Wineaux, there are a number of amazing posts I've been working on (while living my OTHER existence as a performer,) but I had to address a concern of many fellow oenophiles during this hot, HOT summer.

What to drink when the mercury is off the charts?!

So many people say, "it's too hot to drink wine," and I say, "NO" to that!!


So here's a little primer for the rest of your summer.

60-70 degrees F: try an Albariño from Spain, or a Vermentino from Sardinia. Both of these exhibit rounder fruit flavors like melon and apricot, and are a bit weightier, though still well-balanced and super quaffable. Martin Codax is a reputable Albariño producer (though your local store may have some other wonderful options,) and I always enjoy the Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino. Both usually <$20.


70-80 degrees F: time for refreshing bubbles! A cava from Spain has the same methodology of production as Champagne, but the indigenous grapes result in a lighter, more refreshing sipper. I'm a huge fan of the award-winning Segua Viudas cava. (~$10) Also, go a little red (YEP!) with a sparkling Brachetto from Italy. Some of these are on the sweeter side, so if that's your taste then hooray, but I prefer one made in the drier style. You get a refreshing, light red, on the herby side, but perfect out on the patio as the grill is firing up. The Banfi Rosa Regale has wide distribution, and is slightly sweet but balanced. (~$18)


80-90 degrees F: I think it's time for a Chenin Blanc (Loire Valley or South Africa) or a nice rosé from Provence. Chenin is such an under-appreciated white grape!! It's known for its lanolin and wax notes, but I find many options are brighter, more interesting, and a great alternative to your more typical Chard and Sauv Blancs. MAN Vintners' (S. Africa) is inexpensive and pretty easy to find, or you can splurge a little for a Vouvray from the Loire.

You can hardly avoid tripping over the summertime rosé displays in your local wine store, and I believe in rosé ALL YEAR ROUND, but there's a reason why so many people go gaga for rosé in the summer. One from Provence, France, will have light strawberry notes, florals, and herbs, and you may find you've sucked down the whole bottle without even realizing it.



90-100 degrees F: It's getting uncomfortably warm out there... you need refreshment, NOW. Head straight for a Grüner Veltliner from Austria, or a grassy Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or the Loire Valley. These will all be crisp with high acidity, perfect for cutting through the mugginess of a hot day. A Grüner picked early will have lime, celery and white pepper notes—and while you can find a ton of value options, try and find an FX Pichler  G.V. and marvel at its elegance.  (~$25-$100 depending on designation.)

Oyster Bay is a common and affordable NZ ZB, but again, your wine purveyors can steer you to a delectable Sauvignon Blanc to fit your desired style and price range.


100+ degrees F: You can't even turn your head without wanting to pass out, so you need something light and caressing like a cool breeze. A Muscadet from the Loire Valley will be refreshing and minerally (those aged "sur lie," or on their lees, will be weightier,) or try a perfecto Txakoli from northwestern Spain. These have a little shpritz, and their fruit is crisp and lean, often with notes of ginger, with tons of acidity and low alcohol. I like the Ameztoi, which comes in both a white and rosé style. (~$20) And if you're serious about your Txakolis, you can pour it into a flat-bottomed glass from a high reach, as the Basque do!



Wineaux, I hope you stay cool and enjoy wines like these during the rest of the dog days of summer. Let me know if you find other summer sippers you love!

Cheers!

CHAMPAGNE PIPER-HEIDSIECK ~ Lunch with Chef de Cave REGIS CAMUS

People who know me have heard me say, "If I could drink Champagne all day long, every day, I would." So it should be no surprise that when I had the chance to dine with Piper-Heidsieck's award-winning Chef de Cave Régis Camus, I jumped. On a balmy November day, I joined him and a few other Wineaux at Koi Soho for an incredible lunch, paired with an array of Piper Champagnes.

We began with the ubiquitous red-labelled Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV: notes of brioche and lemon, clean, with a sublime mousse, bright yet rich. 100% malolactic fermentation but still so fresh. ~$45. Lifting his glass, M. Camus said, "The first glass is the best of the day." So true.

Champagne lovers know that a NV wine isn't a "second runner-up" to the vintage-declared bottlings. A NV blend represents the identity of the Champagne house, as it is crafted year to year to achieve the house style using reserve wines and different percentages of the three permitted varietals (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier,) from a base vintage. When I asked M. Camus if he had favorite reserve wines that he was perhaps reluctant to use up, he said, a tad derisively, "Others want to hold, like museum. The Chef's job is to keep using wines." I took another sip, savoring the generous history in my glass.

Blending also occurs with a vintage wine, but with different varietals and vineyards, not years. The Piper-Heidsieck Brut Vintage 2006 (49% Pinot Noir, 51% Chardonnay) was sourced from 16 Grand and Premier Crus (rated vineyards) during a "challenging yet rewarding" year marked by a wide range of weather. It had a yeasty nose with a strong tangerine element, and was rich and floral with an incredible length of fruit. Vivid, generous, gorgeous minerality, balanced acidity, strong mousse. ~$80. M. Camus called this "The Diplomat," and with a little prodding, I discovered he has nicknames for all of his vintage-designated Champagnes — 2008 was "The Diamond," 2004 was "The Marathoner." Love it! Toasting with the 2006, M. Camus said, "The second glass... is the best of the day." Agreed.

A Champagne house's Tête de Cuvée, or Cuvée Prestige, is its jewel in the crown. For Piper, that is the Rare, and they have only released EIGHT vintages of Rare sine its debut in 1976. As winemaker, M. Camus can take the gloves off and use complete creative freedom to craft a spectacular wine. The Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millesime 2002 (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir) has a bold nose of baked lemon and brioche. It is luxe beyond belief, with a creamy mandarin curd finish. Disgorged in 2012, this spent 9 years on its lees, and has the oomph to be cellared for another 20. ~$180. As we raised our glasses, I said, "Let me guess: the third glass…" and we all chorused: "is the best of the day!"

Most of the courses at Koi Soho have an Asian flair, and it doesn't take a Master Somm to pair Champagne with sushi... but how about red meat? Well, for a winter lamb chop, look no further than the Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV (55-60% Pinot Noir, 20-25% Pinot Meunier, 10-15% Chardonnay, with some "vin de couleur," or still Pinot Noir, in the mix.) This was a deep, vibrant pink, with very fragrant strawberry notes, candied cherries, grapefruit, and roses, with a subtle mousse. Like the NV Brut, the rosé is blended from a base wine (in this case, 2010,) and a large number of reserve wines. M. Camus implied this rosé is one of his toughest wines to make; the color should be consistent from year to year, Pinot Noir could overwhelm the blend but shouldn't, and some vintages, crops of Pinot Noir don't pass muster for the rosé. But it's worth it; the Piper Heidsieck Rosé is another very striking, yet elegant, wine. ~$60.

Finally, we headed into dessert with the Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Sublime. (55-60% Pinot Noir, 20-25% Pinot Meunier, 10-15% Chardonnay.) This is a Demi-Sec, which means it has a higher dosage (added sugar) and will exhibit apparent sweetness. But make no mistake, this is not a syrupy, cloying dessert wine. Think of it more like a voluptuous bombshell pin-up! Notes of marzipan, pineapple, vanilla cupcake. Delicious fruit, extremely well-balanced. (My notes have "delicious" again.) It certainly paired well with the dessert course, but would be a heady experience on its own. ~$50.

Although M. Camus has been named "Champagne Winemaker of the Year" by the International Wine Challenge eight times, Piper-Heidsieck doesn't command consumers' attention the way Perrier-Jouët or Möet & Chandon do. What does that mean for you Wineaux? Simple: incredible Champagnes at comparatively bargain prices. Perhaps Piper-Heidsieck doesn't have the reputation of other large houses, but it is a mistake to pass over these incredible wines. The cultivation of the vintage offerings and the high percentage of reserve wine in the NV bottlings belies the price points. In general, the Piper style is bold yet elegant, and who doesn't want that in a Champagne! So go seek some out, and let me know if you agree.

Many thanks to M. Camus and to my friends at Terlato Wines for a delicious luncheon and the unique opportunity to drink gorgeous Champagnes with their Chef beside me. I look forward to tasting with M. Camus again someday (and perhaps inspire a nickname for a future vintage —"The Minx"?!)

Cheers!

IT'S ALL GREEK TO ME (THANK HEAVENS!!)

On one of the first real summer-like days recently, I was sipping al fresco at the charming Terroir on the Porch wine bar off the High Line here in NYC. With a dependable and diverse selection of great wines on their list, I'd been stuck on what to order. Riesling? Rosé? And then my eyes landed on something that made me shut the menu with a bang and gleefully shout, "Moschofilero, please!"

Moschofilero is a white Greek wine variety, typically with grass, citrus, and white floral characteristics. This one was medium-bodied, but crisp and zingy enough to refresh in the heat.

For most Wineaux, Greek wine has hovered at the periphery of our sipping. The grapes are hard to pronounce, the producers are not well-known, and a lot of people still think of pine-sap Retsina as the (unfortunate) benchmark of what the country has to offer.

But the inquiring Wineau will have a huge payoff if he or she takes a "trip" to Greece. Quality is rising—I personally have noticed an across-the-board elevation in consistency over the past five or six years—and the number of delicious available offerings is growing.

Kostantinos Lazarakis, Greece's only Master of Wine, says, "People are getting bored with homogenous wines. In Greece, we have a diversity you can actually taste in the glass." And trust me, seeking out diverse Greek wines is worth the effort.

For whites, try an Assyrtiko ("ah-SEAR-tee-ko") like the 2013 Assyrtiko by Gaia. With a wonderful nose of ripe peach and a little funk, it's very spicy in the mouth with a bit of straw, and is quite rich. "Yes!" I wrote. ~$30. Or the 2012 Santorini Assyrtiko Grande Reserve with its great melony-taffy nose, and herbs, straw, and tart citrus on the palate. Delicious. ~$28.

Then there's my friend Moschofilero ("mohs-ko-FEEL-er-oh"): the 2014 Spiropoulos Mantinia Moschofilero has a nose of white flowers, melon, and white peach. Lightly acidic, it's very quaffable, with an herby and lime pith finish. ~$17. Spiropoulos also makes a bubbly from Moschofilero (and you KNOW I love the bubbly.) The 2013 Ode Panos (Moschofilero) has a "soapy" nose, is very minerally and fresh, with good citrus and bright spice. ~$21. The 2014 Troupis Mantinia Moschofilero I describe as "sea breeze-y," and has spice, good acidity, nice round expression, with white florals. ~$17. The 2014 Troupis Fteri Moschofilero is also lovely, with pear and jasmine notes, good spice, and a well-balanced structure. ~$13.

Lazarakis said, "Outside of Greece, the white wines are the hero, gathering the spotlight. But we believe our red wines are our best wines." So my tasting moved on to some of Greece's red varieties.

First up, a grape I'd hardly ever heard of: Liatiko. From Crete, the 2013 Doulofakis Dafinios Red has a crazy aroma of raspberry-scented magic marker (remember those?!) with cranberry and bramble fruit. It shows a bright bit of sweet licorice, liquid violets, and is tart and cheeky with good balance and length. ~$13. And a red of some mysterious unknown ancient grape from Pangeon, the 2010 Biblia Chora Biblinos Oenos has a nose of raspberries and lilac, with a round depth of flavor, fresh herbs, integrated soft tannins, and a long length. Juicy. ~$45.

Next, a grape I'm finding more and more attractive, Agiorgitiko (ah-your-YEE-ti-ko.) I love the tasty 2013 Tselepos Driopi Nemea Agiorgitiko, with toast, florals, light berries, very cranberry crunchy on the palate, smooths out into present but integrated tannic finish. ~$20. Lazarakis said, "2013 was the best vintage ever in Greece—all regions." Good to know! The 2007 Gaia Estate Agiorgitiko has a flinty nose, with earth and florals. Lots of blue fruit in the mouth, very well-balanced, yum. ~$115/magnum. Showing how well this grape can age, the 2005 Papaioannou Microclima Agiorgitiko has a fragrant floral nose with ripe raspberries. Black fruits come forward in the mouth, with grapefruit zest. Smooth and integrated. ~$NA. The 2014 Troupis Fteri Agiorgitiko is also tasty, with lots of bright red fruit, cheeky, good balance and length. ~$NA. And the 2013 Tselepos Dryopi Nemea Agiorgitiko has a red licorice element, once again bright red fruit, an herby finish, and nice structure. ~$20.

No overview of Greece would be complete without Xinomavro (ksee-NO-mahv-ro.) To quote Lazarakis: "Xinomavro is a bitch." Dark, acidic, and tannic, Xinomavro often needs a strong guiding hand. There is a bit of a debate in Greece right now—to make this wine in a more modern, fruity style, or a more traditional, rustic version. I did love the 2012 Thymiopoulos Uranos Xinomavro, with its nose of blackberry and smoke. Bright, pure fruit on the palate, cheeky, sassy, good acidity, light tannins, "delish!" ~$25. The interesting 2008 Boutari Naoussa Grande Reserve Xinomavro has a delicate floral, earthy, feminine nose, but is very tannic and oomphy. ~$16. I was really looking forward to sampling the 1997 Kir Yianni Ramnista Xinomavro, but alas, both magnums brought to the tasting were corked. Bummer.

At this New Wines of Greece event, there were also interesting blends on hand, some using international varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, although I focused on indigenous grapes. So there's really something for everyone, including few rosés that were delectable: the 2014 Gaia 14-18H Rosé (Agiorgitiko) with its huge strawberry nose, bracing acidity, herb stems, and tomato water essence. ~$15. And the 2014 Moraitis Rosé (70% Aidani mavro, 30% Mandilaria) with rose petals, ripe strawberries, a bit of green stemminess, quite delish, not too acidic. ~$12.

It's true you'll have to seek these out; Greek wines, while growing in popularity in the U. S.,  are relatively rare—in a good year, the whole country produces under four million hectolitres of wine (the region of Bordeaux itself produces around 4.5 million hls.) But the values are certainly there; "Greek wines are cheap!" says Lazarakis, encouragingly. With retail prices generally in the $15-30 range, you can't disagree when comparing these wines with quality wines from other regions of the world. As always, talk to your merchants and somms and ask for recommendations. You'll be glad you did.

For a region steeped in 4000 years of winemaking history, Greece is really kind of having a renaissance, with no end in sight. As Lazarakis says, "The best is yet to come. We are discovering ourselves—our wines, our vines, ourselves—by the minute."

Cheers!

TOP WINES UNDER $20 of 2013!!!

Wineaux, those of you with a lot of attention to detail will immediately notice the title of this post doesn't gibe with past years'... normally you'd expect to see "TOP 20 UNDER $20".  Well, even in good drinking years, I often have difficulty finding twenty wines that fit my criteria.  This year I didn't even come close.  It's not for a lack of good value wines out there, so why?  A few reasons: 

A) The Minx is not a world-famous wine critic who is sent myriad bottles to taste and review.  (YET.)

B) My performance and other work schedules kept me away from many industry tastings where I can sample hundreds of wines so to better serve YOU, my readers.

C) My performance and other work schedules and travels kept me from staying in one place longer than three months at a time, which interestingly ended up being a factor, although some of my globe-trotting discoveries certainly made the list.

However, I still unearthed some gemmy-gem-gems for you, never fear!  Lucky-number THIRTEEN world-wide wines that will give you an incredible bang-for-the-buck.  (And now my hyphen usage has exceeded its limit.)  Let's get to it!

 #13 - 2012 Benefactor Cellars Shiraz, South Eastern Australia.  (Imported by Trader Joe's, and pretty much only found there!) A solid offering, with balanced fruit and Shiraz's typical peppery spice, very quaffable, and a perfect party wine for only $6.


#12 - 2010 Anselmi San Vincenzo, Veneto Northern Italy, 80% Garganega, 10% Chardonnay, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc.  (A little something for everyone.)  Can you say FLORAL AROMATICS? I knew you could. Good citrus, yellow apple and minerals with medium weight and a balanced finish, yum. $13


#11 - 2012 José Maria da Fonseca Periquita White, Setúbal Peninsula, Portugal.  Pale gold color, with straw and light tropical fruits on the nose.  Nice fruit expression with citrus on the finish but not overly acidic.  Great on its own or with appetizers or shellfish.  Blend of Verdelho, Moscatel de Setúbal, Viosinho and Viognier.  $10

#10 - 2012 Anthony Nappa "Bordo," North Fork, LI.  100% Cabernet Franc.  Lightish ruby color, nose of macerated raspberries, tomato stem, smoke.  Very juicy and bright with balanced earthy elements on finish.  A little odd (which I do like) but definitely interesting!  A lot going on but lighter in style.  $19.99



#9 - 2011 Quinta do Passadouro Tinto, Douro, Portugal.  Had this beauty in my fave Lisboa wine bar.  Scrumptious berry salad on nose, with robust and velvety fruit mid-palate, violets, and integrated tannins and acid. 40% Touriga Nacional,  25% Touriga Franca, 25% Tinta Roriz and 10% "??" (= field blend unknowns!)  $13


#8 - 2008 Edward Sellers "Mayhem" Red, Paso Robles, CA.  Ample velvety red and black fruit.  Pretty lush but not overly-structured.  If you like them big and fleshy and soft, this is your gal, and she's a keeper! I got it for $12


#7 - 2012 Cloudline Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR.  Definitely a New World Pinot, but with some Old World finesse; aromatic berries, herbs, medium weight, and lovely fruit and pepper. $16

 #6 -  2012 Dalton Winery Rosé, Israel.  Blend of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.  I was very impressed with what I saw coming out of Israel, and this had an unusual yet wow-nose of floral perfume with good acidity - generally very yummy with great fruit and great length.  $17


#5 - 2009 Kayra Vintage Öküzgözü Single Vineyard, Turkey. ("Euh-KUHz-guh-zuh" basically.) One of my finds from my new fave wine region, Turkey, this powerhouse has dark berries and smoke on the nose, and is complex yet velvety and rich with good structure.  $19.99 (just made the cutoff!)


#4 - 2011 Catena Malbec, Argentina. A LOT of people really like this wine (critics and drinkers alike,) and it's no wonder.  It has a heady nose of berry jam and a whiff of smoke, with dense and velvety berries, herbs, a little coffee and sweet oak notes on the palate.  Excellent value for the price. $16


#3 - 2011 Channing Daughters Scuttlehole Chardonnay, Long Island, NY. Intense but not clunky; notes of Meyer lemon and toast with great acidity.  Yum!  Especially for you ABC-ers, (Anything But Chardonnay,) it's definitely worth a try, you may change your mind with this one.  $15

Montefino is on the left, but the Penha was lovely too.

#2 - 2005 Montefino Tinto, Alentejo Portugal.  Trincadeira, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Alicante Bouschet & Touriga Nacional - another excellent find from Portugal.  Dark ruby, smoked meat on the nose with a feel of its age and time in oak.  WOW!  It's sexy, velvety and complex yet very, very bright with good acidity.  In a nutshell, it feels pedigreed yet quaffable. $18


AND MY #1 UNDER $20 WINE OF THE YEAR...

EGEO ROZE on the Right...

#1 - 2012 Kavaklidere Egeo Roze (rosé), Anatolya, Turkey.  A blend of 60% Çal Karası and 40% Grenache, it had a pale color of salmon/ onion skin.  The nose was warm, of light tart cherry fruit and minerals.  It was very, very dry, with lots of acidity but not too bracing, and fruit that went on and on, with rose petal and geranium florals and a bit of salinity. $17
 
Once again I was pleased with the variety of regions, grapes and styles of wines.  There definitely is something for everyone, and you can't beat the price to try something new!  Let me know if you come across these and what you think... and DEFINITELY let me know if you have a favorite <$20 wine the Minx shouldn't miss!  Cheers.