Wednesday, October 9, 2019

WOW: CAMPANIA WHITES CAN AGE!!



Friends, this is no revelation about a burgeoning wine region or indigenous grape variety... this is a revelation that quality white wines from the southern region of Campania in Italy not only CAN age, but are even BETTER with age. 

Who'd a-thunk? Not this Minx.

First of all, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo are not grape varieties that most wine drinkers are familiar with, unless you happen to live next door to an Italian wine bar. As with many Italian varieties, they are indigenous to that part of the country, along with around 100 others; check out this great map I stole from vineyards.com that shows the main pockets (the two varieties in question are in the more center grouping:)

Image result for campania wine map

Secondly, most white table wines are meant to be consumed within a few years of release, that's just the nature of the beast. (I tell my wine students to be wary of a white that's 5-10 years old on the shop shelves because it's probably been sitting gathering dust way too long and will be B-A-D, bad.)

NOT THESE BABIES. I am seriously considering running out to every store in Manhattan in the vain hope that they might have one of these still lying around! That is the one caveat -- stores likely won't sell the older versions because they do typically get drunk up earlier. So, listen to the Minx's sage advice:

  • You should buy a case right now of a good vintage.
  • Enjoy a bottle every now and then.
  • But put six bottles in the corner of your cellar and forget about them.
  • Set a reminder on your iPhone for 2029.
  • Then start popping one a year for the next six years. 


YOU 馃憦馃徎 WILL 馃憦馃徎 NOT 馃憦馃徎 REGRET 馃憦馃徎 IT馃憦馃徎!

And... you can afford to do this little experiment, because these wines are available for about $16-19 bucks. The return on this investment would make Wall Street envious!

Let me show you what I mean...

Recently I tasted three vintages of Azienda Agricola Petilia & Solina's Greco di Tufo. The 2015 was linear, clean, with fresh notes of lemongrass and light apple, juicy but lean. The 2014 had a delectable nose of green plum, with a minerally, herby zing, and it developed a lemony richness in the glass. But the 2009 had gorgeous perfume of dried mountain flowers, was dense and complex, with layers of flavors of straw, citrus, fruit, and in no way seemed ten years old.

I also had a flight of Donnachiara's Fiano di Avellino. The 2013 had caramel apple, lemon, high tone herbs, ginger, was a bit savory, with sneaky-uppy acid, and a little bitterness on the finish like that of menthol/ eucalyptus. The 2009 was not a great vintage for Fiano, so this one was a bit oxidized, though still sound, with a steely-brassy feel; less "taut," though had good tingly acid and a long finish. But the 2007 had a gorgeous nose of yellow flowers, brown butter, lemon curd, with spry acidity, and a juicy, honeyed richness. My notes say, "wow -- stunning." Again, no earthly clue that this was a TWELVE year old white table wine.

Both winemakers happened to be women, which I appreciate tremendously, and there is a history of grapegrowers-turning-winemakers in the southern half of Italy so they both come from a long family line. The Petilia wines are a bit harder to find in the U.S., though Donnachiara has good availability. They both also make plenty of other wines (Petilia does a Greco and Donnachiara does a Fiano, for example, but both portfolios also include the iconic Campanian Taurasi -- a red wine from Aglianico that [less-surprisingly] can also age well -- among many others.)

So the point is: knock aside your perceptions that slurpable table wines are only meant to be consumed immediately, as I have, and try and get your hands on some of these killer bottles to set aside. If you have the patience (I know, it's HARD,) the rewards will pay off tremendously... in a decade or so!

Cheers.

Sunday, September 22, 2019

ISRAEL is WHERE IT'S AT!

Bear with me if I sound like a broken record, but you know I go nutso over wines from less-common locales, and here's another one! I have long enjoyed wines from Israel, but two recent tastings catapulted the country to the forefront of my mind; the quality is amazing, the potential is HUGE, and the value is incredible. So banish those thoughts that Israel only makes grape-juicy Kosher wines already and get with the program!

It's a little funny that in one sense Israel is absolutely "Old World" -- it's one of the very first places ancient people grew grapes. But it's certainly "New World" in guts and style.

Here are some things to keep in mind:
  • There really is no clear "signature" grape of the region. In fact, Grenache was first planted only about ten years ago and is making some of the world's best already! As knowledge, experimentation, and technology grow, so will the quality and variety of Israeli wines.
  • Many bold Israeli reds are actually super-approachable, meaning they're not overly-structured and require years of cellaring before you pop them. These are meant to be drunk now!
  • This is a group of winemakers who are forging forward, breaking conventions, and doing it all with passion and a strong intellectual and environmental basis. They are Jewish, Muslim, Christian, and non-religious to boot. 
  • There are only about 35 commercial wineries, but around 250 boutique ones, and this number is rising as grape-growers peel off to make their own wines. Some of which are already achieving "cult" status!

Here are some of my standouts from those recent tastings:

2018 Five Stones “D vs G” White (David v Goliath) 
Appellation laws are fairly relaxed in Israel, so they have a lot of options for experimentation with blends. I initially had a "hmmmmm" reaction to this 60% Gewurztraminer 40% Sauvignon Blanc blend, as who thinks to put those two grapes together?! And I did feel it kind of butted itself in the head, BUT boy how it would go with the spiced and spicy food of the region. Typical "grandma's boudoir" Gewurz notes of dusty rose perfume with litchi, accompanied by SB's green, linear acidity. Outrageously long finish. I definitely warmed up to it! ~$30

2017 Recanati Winery Reserve Marawi 
Marawi is one of the indigenous varieties of the area now getting resurrected. This was first commercially released in 2014, and is the tricky story of a Palestinian grower who sells the grapes grown in his backyard to an Israeli company. (His name isn't released because they have had death threats on both sides, yikes.) Recanati also has their own vineyards, and produce a Roussane/Marsanne blend and an old bush vine Carignan, all farmed biodynamically. This had yellow fruit, sweet brioche, juicy apricot, lanolin, honeysuckle, and a little spice with smoky, flinty minerality. Long yet mild finish. Little Chenin Blanc-like. 1 year in French oak. ~$34

2011 Somek Carignan
This is from a single vineyard with 40-year old vines. The Someks are 5th generation winemaker-grapegrowers, so this is a family vineyard since 1882; the winery itself was founded in 2002. The family does it all, including marketing and distribution. This Carignan is aged 24 months in French oak and 2 years in bottle. Definitely earthy, terroir-driven. Cola, hi-tone blueberry, mocha dust, minerally, with licorice, brambly berries, wild sage, a little spicy, and has tightly wound, balanced tannins over a super long finish. Continues to be tangy after 7 years! And it's still kind of a baby. This will be fascinating in a few more years! ~$35

2016 Hayotzer Lyrica
Arza, Hayotzer's parent company, started in 1847! Here we have a GSM blend (40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre.) Soft red and pink flowers, crunchy red fruit, white pepper, smooth and sexy, plush but juicy, whiff of smoke on finish, not super-complex but really tasty and I wanted to slurp it uuuup. ~$40

2016 Gvaot Masada
Shiva Drori, Gvaot's winemaker, is interested in the academic side of making wine; he does DNA testing, studies wine at a high level, and brings that information back to the vineyards and winery. The Masada is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 22% Petit Verdot, from rocky, steep, mountainous vineyards, with a huge diurnal swing; the elevation and diurnal keep the temperature in check and preserve the grapes' freshness and acidity. At my tasting, I thought this wine glass was not properly clean, muting the wine's aroma, and so this showed merely dusty on the nose. But in the mouth there was loads of tightly wound purple fruit (that PV really jumps forward!) leading to a big and structured, but balanced wine. Wow. ~$75

2016 Covenant Syrah
Covenant brought winemaker Jeff Morgan from Napa over to consult, and that has led to its growing cult status. This wine is 90% Syrah with a dash (10%) of Cabernet Sauvignon. It presents as liquid red fruit, spicy and juicy and lush and sexy, pepper, light savory notes, super balance of fruit/savory/spice/oak use plushness, wow! Lifted tang on long finish. Chewy. It brings voluptuousness without blousy-ness. ~$75

2016 Tura “Mountain Peak” Red
Another cult comes from the husband/wife team Vered and Erez Ben Sa'adon (she's the winemaker.) The Mountain Peak red is a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot. Cassis, cedar, herbal liqueur, pyrazine, good acid once again, tangy juicy outrageously long finish. This is definitely a creative take on a CS-based Bordeaux-style blend. ~$75

2016 Segal “Unfiltered” Cabernet Sauvignon
The Israeli cults just keep on coming! Winemaker Avi Feldstein has boldly produced an unfiltered Cab since the days when that was a kind of blasphemy. This is a super-interesting wine, with cassis liqueur, bright red fruit, mocha, toasted coconut, a bit of shortbread. Wow. Really “red,” dense and intense. Long finish. Big but plush/approachable. Segal is owned by the large company Barcan — "big kids" in Israel sometimes acquire or start small wineries to have a garagiste offering. ~$60

2014 Golan Heights Winery Yarden “2T” 
Golan Height is one of the coldest areas in Israel, and much like the U.S.'s Old West, there are wild horses galloping along wide volcanic plains. This is one of the country's more classic wineries, and here they're showcasing how Portuguese varieties can shine in Israel. A blend of 69%Touriga Nacional and 31% Tinta C茫o sourced from 2 vineyards in Golan Heights: Springs Vineyard at 700 meters elevation, and Geshur Vineyard at 400m. Aged 18 mo in 40% new French oak. Smoky, spicy mocha, black plum, blackberry, black cherry, lots of peppery spice on finish. Good combo of juicy, approachable fruit, some more savory notes, and balanced acid and subtle tannins on long, balanced finish.  ~$33

2014 Tabor Winery Malkiya Single Vineyard CS 
Tabor was founded in 1999 by four families of growers that have working there for five generations. This Cab is from a single vineyard at 726 meters elevation with Terra Rossa (the most famous soil of Coonawarra in Australia,) under topsoil, and lots of limestone rocks they refer to as “a lot of stars.” Viticulturist Michal Ackerman found this area and she convinced them to make wine there! Her vines' roots go down 20 feet so they have access to water and unusually for Israel don’t need irrigation. She’s also planting Malbec and Chenin Blanc in the Negev desert, so watch for those.  These Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are hand picked, they use only free-run juice, and it is aged 18 months in new French oak with an additional 1 year in bottle. Smoky, cassis, cedar, cloves, wow, VERY tasty, with the red fruit coming out more on the palate. Tightly wound, and it releases layers of flavors over an incredibly long, balanced finish. Would be fun to blind taste this on some smarty somms! ~$60


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I don't know about you, but I am definitely planning to seek out more of these amazing wines from Israel. At the high end, maybe $60-75 bucks seems like a lot, but you'd be paying $150-300 for a similar wine from Napa, so these actually are a steal! Ask your merchants and somms about providing more quality wines from Israel; they may appreciate your "insider" know-how, but they also need to know you're interested in trying these stunning offerings. (Seriously, there was hardly a dud in the bunch, and I sampled over FIFTY wines.) I look forward to my next "visit" to Israel, for sure!

Cheers.






Wednesday, July 10, 2019

The Diverse Treasures of LODI

(thanks @WorldAtlas.com!)
I have long believed that the wine region of Lodi in California holds a tremendous amount of possibility; it seems that every single grape in the world grows well there. Sure, you'll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and a host of other familiar names, but there is also everything from Albari帽o to Zinfandel; over 100 vitis vinifera grapes are grown in the area. And yes -- that is pretty darn unusual!

Lodi, located inland from San Francisco Bay, has a mild Mediterranean climate, and benefits from cooling breezes funneled in from the Pacific Ocean. Its local geography is so diverse, they can grow grapes from all over the globe in numerous plots and pockets boasting various microclimates. The winemakers of Lodi are leaders in sustainable winegrowing as well, and there is a palpable sense of them working together to advance the reputation of the region (not battling it out in competition.)

One may never master the incredible array of wines produced in Lodi, but a recent tasting reconfirmed the absolute deliciousness at every turn. Notes on some favorites are below (and I have added the "home base" for the varietals used just for funsies.)

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2017 Belle Blanc
2018 Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards Ingenue:
Very intriguing!! Blend of the white Rh么ne varietals 35% Clairette Blanche, 35% Grenache Blanc, 20% Bourboulenc, 10% Picpoul Blanc. But don't worry about the grapes, just enjoy the dense, rich aromas and flavors of nectarine, straw, and ginger, layered over balanced acidity, leading to a tangy and intense wine. I admit I pre-judged the wine because of the abnormal bottle, but it delivers the goods! $32 (S France)

2018 Lange Twins Winery & Vineyards Aglianico Ros茅:
This deep garnet-y pink may turn off some used to the paleness of Provence ros茅s, but Aglianico is a thick-skinned and dark grape variety so it makes a powerful ros茅! No wimps allowed here, with super SHPICY rose petals and raspberry-strawberry fruit. Yum. $20 (Italy)

2016 Mettler Family Pinotage:
I have never had a Pinotage NOT from South Africa, so I was understandably wary. Welp, color me pleasantly surprised! This was super-complex and gorgeously balanced; blueberry, mocha, violet florals, with tangy acidity and light, grippy tannins. Intriguing all around. I shared it with a bunch of chefs I'd just done a wine class for and it was hands down wine of the night for them! $25 (South Africa)

2016 PRIE Winery Ancient Vine (1900) Block 4 Speaker Ranch Carignane:
Image result for michael david inkblotLose the wine-geekiness and just slurp up this delish bottle. Bright crunchy red and black cherry fruit, zingy acid, some spice and a whiff of florals. Just keep my glass full, please. $29 (S France/Spain)

2016 Michael David Winery Inkblot Cabernet Franc:
Y'all know I love a sexxxy wine, and this fits the bill! Dark, rich, dense, blackberry pie, cocoa/mocha, graphite, bit of herby earthiness, violets. Cab Franc can sometimes be a little too light or a little too green, and this has a dose of 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Sirah to ground it. Intense and rich with subtle tannins. $29 (Loire)


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Perhaps the amazing diversity of Lodi's wines will make it harder for the region to be given its due, as there is no recognizable specialty. But this diversity is precisely what makes Lodi wonderful. (And the price-per-quality ratio isn't bad either! While there were no "bargains" per se in this lineup, the quality here absolutely justified the cost.) So next time you want to try something a little unusual, by all means give Lodi a look -- I look forward to hearing about your discoveries, from Kerner, to Marzemino, to Zweigelt, and beyond!

Wines provided for review by snooth.com

Wednesday, January 30, 2019

Is Prosecco Unethical? The Latest Debate...

A friend of mine shared the following Guardian article with me on Facebook today:


And it bugged me so much, I was immediately spurred to a verbose reply, which quickly veered this way and that way as I attempted to convey all the sudden feels.

Go take a peek at the article, and then come back.

Okay, so my first thought: has Prosecco's popularity caused over-production? Absolutely. But this is not a new trend. Prosecco is Italy's largest DOC (controlled area of production,) producing over 300 million bottles a year. There are very high permitted yields to be able to reach that number. What is the downside of high yields? Loss of quality. Do higher-yielding vines cause more erosion than lower-yielding vines? Questionable. In the Northern Rh么ne in France, which has quite low production and yields, soil erosion is a big problem, especially in Hermitage. (There are areas of the Northern Rh么ne that are so steep and so eroded that they have a pulley system with carts to tote soil back up the hill after it's cascaded down!) Perhaps elevated production means increased human and mechanical traffic, and that might affect erosion, but there's no way to unequivocally know. (I don't have time or money to do a study, but would be happy to, once I'm done with my Diploma, if anyone wants to fund me!)

Then -- the article mentions possible fixes, like the planting of grass in-between rows. They question if producers would embrace that. HELLO: wine-grape growers have used cover crops since the dawn of winemaking for various reasons. Cross-pollination, encouraging useful pests, indicator crops, etc. So, also not a new trend. If they feel soil erosion is a big problem, I'm sure planting grass to halt it would be a no-brainer. And let's talk about nutrients for a minute... poorer soils that cause the vines to struggle actually create better wine (if wine vines get everything they need, they're not really motivated to produce greatness, kinda like some humans.) Common fertilizers can replace nutrients to a degree that they will nourish the vine but not spoil it rotten. And the question of pesticides moving downstream? That would happen in ANY vineyard near a water source that uses pesticides.

There are holes all over this article, and it's no wonder that the paper it's based on has not yet been peer-reviewed. So here's the thing: if you REALLY want to be an ethical consumer of wine, here are a few things you can do.

  • Buy wine from sustainable and/or organic producers.
These producers embrace practices both in the vineyard and the winery that reduce their carbon footprint and treat the environment with care. 
  •  Seek out wines with alternative packaging.
The thing is, glass is HEAVY. And bulky. So shipping it all over the world causes more carbon emissions, and uses more fuel. Unfortunately, many wines with alternative packaging are associated with lower-quality because it's all about saving money on the production end, but movement is afoot. 
  • Recycle your wine bottles.
This should go without saying, but if you're consuming wine in a glass bottle, you'd better be recycling that baby when it's empty!
  • Seek out individual producers.
Wines made by many big brands or producers may be easy to find and are recognizable in the supermarket, but a lot of them are such large-scale operators that they sacrifice quality to quantity. This also means occasional unscrupulous activities (like the addition of grape concentrate Mega Purple to dye the wine's color to something consumers might find more appealing and to cover up "off" flavors) and lack of attention to detail in the vineyard. Better to go with a smaller producer who is more hands-on and aware of how every step in the winemaking process affects his or her product. 
Image result for prosecco

So don't banish Prosecco to the "don't buy" list just because of this article. But do look for quality producers and learn more about the way they grow grapes and make wine, in Prosecco and in every wine region you "frequent." 

And just so you know, the Prosecco consortium is very concerned with sustainability.  


Cheers!


Friday, January 11, 2019

Bringing GENEVER Back

This article originally appeared on www.snooth.com October 25, 2018.


Is there anything more Dutch than bicycling over cobblestone streets alongside a canal? Yes: ending that bike trip with a glass of genever. This Wineau found herself in the Netherlands recently, and while there is a burgeoning wine region there—I had a surprisingly lovely Dutch Auxerrois my first night—it’s clear the true spirit of the Netherlands is its signature beverage, genever.

[Genever production in a nutshell: the malt base is typically from one or a blend of grains like rye, wheat, and corn, usually triple-distilled to between 40-80% abv. The grains used add different levels of cereal notes and weight. Neutral spirit is important as well (comprising most of the base for the new style,) as it imparts no flavor and can reach very high alcohol. Then botanicals, spices, and/or fruits are processed, either by maceration or distilling. The master distiller will blend all components and they are left to “marry,” usually for a number of weeks. Then there is the option to age in casks, which can add elements from the barrels’ original use (Bourbon, Sherry, wine, etc.,) plus a warmer, woodier essence. All of the many choices the master distiller makes helps define the house style, but also, there can be multiple offerings from each house, showcasing different styles or flavors.]

Genever (pronounced juh-NEE-ver) is an artisanal spirit with an intricate history and versatility. What’s tricky is that sometimes genever can seem like gin (it actually predates what we now call gin,) but sometimes it can seem like scotch, depending on the style of production. And there is an enormous range of flavors from whatever array of botanicals each distiller uses. What all genevers do share is the use of some percentage of malt spirit for the base, and they all must include juniper berries in the botanical blend. If there is a low amount of malt spirit and a clean, fresh feel, you’ll have a new style genever, which are gin-like and great in cocktails. If there is a higher percentage of malt and some oak aging, you’ll have an old style genever, which is on the whisky spectrum and makes for enjoyable sipping. 

Not only does genever offer something for every spirit-lover, but it has a long history with the U.S. America’s first published bartender’s guides show that, until the 1880s, “gin” was Dutch-style (so it was actually genever,) and about a quarter of all cocktail recipes at that time were based on the spirit. So, America’s spirit-ual journey pretty much began with genever.

If you’re a die-hard Jameson drinker, or you rarely stray from your Tanqueray and tonic, stop reading now. But if you love exploring new beverages, and you’re fascinated by the individual stamp distillers can place on their product (often tracing back many generations,) weaving personal histories and personalities into the mix, genever may quickly become your new favorite go-to. 

Genever even has its own ritual: a “kopstootje,” or, “head-butt.” (Pronounced kop-stow-che.) This is a ceremony involving a glass of genever filled completely to the brim alongside a beer. You squat down with your hands behind your back and slurp the first bit of genever. Then you can stand, and have a sip of beer as a chaser. Hands are allowed for the rest of your beverage enjoyment; the first sip is what’s important. The ritual’s name comes from the fact that you might “head-butt” the glass of beer when you’re maneuvering to attack that first mouthful of genever. One of my colleagues likened the process to “Netherlands Yoga,” but it’s pretty easy to get the hang of it, especially if you’re taught by Piet van Leijenhorst, Master Distiller of Bols genever. 

There is a Bols facility in the heart of old Amsterdam, although they do most of their production outside of town (something about high quantities of incredibly flammable liquid not a great idea in the city center?) Standing beside three gorgeous copper stills, Piet offered up some glasses, which became a time travel back to the past, at the same time looking forward into the future.

Piet said the Bols 100% Malt Genever“is not genever with a lot of different taste profiles, it’s the heart of genever.” In a way, this is genever in its purest form: no mix of botanicals, just juniper berry and malt spirit, and you can taste the simplicity and power. The Bols Original Genever, with its subtle juniper and a feel of fresh, clean linen (!), has a blend of 22 distilled botanicals, with “a secret ingredient… it gives you a funny feeling on your tongue,” as Piet said with a laugh. On the other side of the spectrum was the Bols 9-Year Aged Original Genever. When they first made the Original in 2008, they put some in three bourbon barrels and just bottled them last year. It was so rich in the mouth, compact and intense, and while 57.5% alcohol, it didn’t feel “hot” at all. Delicious. Alas, that was apparently the last bottle left! (Many thank yous for sharing it, Piet.) But it definitely showcased the beauty and potential of aged genever.

Bols is quite a large distillery, and if you’re familiar with genever at all, it may very well be one of theirs. But the stories from small distilleries are just as compelling. 

The scene of the bike ride over cobblestone streets alongside a canal actually happened in Dordrecht, a small town about an hour’s drive south from Amsterdam. Myriam Hendrickx, the master distiller of Rutte, led us around the charming town like a mother duck with her wobbly ducklings trailing behind (and we hadn’t even had any genever yet.) The Rutte operation is small and family-owned, and when Myriam arrived fifteen years ago, they used original handwritten recipes, and had one computer… operating on DOS. Today, the Rutte team has gotten with the times, but they have not modernized much, in order to focus on the craft element of their genevers and spirits – even still peeling fresh oranges by hand. Downstairs in the original building there are shelves upon shelves of experiments; distillates and macerations of dozens of products. Rutte will probably always remain small, but they will never stop exploring. I loved the Rutte Old Simon Genever – one of their oldest recipes, with unusual (“Say, ‘creative,’” Myriam laughed,) botanicals giving it a pleasing funkiness. And the Rutte Single Oat Genever blew me away, with its honey cereal flavor a great example of what slightly aged genever can achieve. However, “Don’t write too much about this,” said Myriam, “we don’t have enough!” Oops. 

The next day, it was back in the car for a two-hour drive northeast for a visit to De Borgen. First up, the De Borgen 21-Year Aged Cask Aged Malt Spirit, distilled in 1998. Made from 100% barley, aged in ancient Oloroso Sherry casks, almost half of it vaporized over time. It filled my mouth with a warm flame, powerful yet delicate, with flavors of figs and caramel. And this is just one ingredient in their old-style genever. Interestingly, I also loved the De Borgen New Style Genever, with its gin-like profile (lots of juniper,) but very creamy. They used elderflower, bitter oranges, cardamom, and fennel, among others, and the citrus especially was a great counterpoint to its creaminess. At this distillery, I even got to blend my own genever! I went for a new-style profile on an old-style base: 50% malt spirit and 50% neutral, with botanicals of juniper (of course,) cucumber, grapefruit, orange blossom, and some umami from seaweed. If I do say so myself, it was pretty dang tasty; I think Laurens Speek, De Borgen’s Brand Activation Manager, was about to offer me a job. (I only have about 200ml left, but will consider taking orders.) 

The next day, exploration of genever’s character continued at Herman Jansen, located in Schiedam, where a few windmills that used to grind grain to make genever still loom over the quaint town. We sampled some products from Bobby’s, a co-production with Sebastiaan van Bokkel, who is inspired by his part-Indonesian ancestry. They describe the Bobby’s line as, “Dutch Courage Meets Indonesian Spirit,” using only 4% malt spirit with Indonesian botanicals in their genever, making Bobby’s Genever, super-floral, with cardamom, ginger ale, and lemongrass notes. It was tasty on its own, and shone in a simple cocktail for lunch. Herman Jansen gets involved in many projects – 600 so far, though not all make it to the end phase. Their own lines include Notaris, the Bartender’s Choice series, and vintage single cask offerings. Standouts were the Herman Jansen Notaris 15 Year, with its light caramel, herbs, and woody spice, and the Herman Jansen Bartender’s Choice Rome, with its fruity stone fruit and chamomile notes. But the full-on knockout was the Herman Jansen 1991 Single Cask. Ad van der Lee, distiller for both Bobby’s and Herman Jansen, took a sample out of the cask that morning (!) and we were the first to taste it. Light caramel, heady orange blossom, lavender, anise – my notes are full of stars and hearts. Alas, this is not on the market yet, but it’s worth waiting for. 

While closely associated with the Dutch, Genever production is not restricted to the Netherlands— in fact the official Geographical Indication includes Belgium and parts of France and Germany. 

Smeets is a Belgian distillery, and members of their team came to the Genever Museum in Schiedam to showcase Belgian-style genever. They bottle genevers that have spent time in Port and rum casks, which definitely impart their own flavors, but my favorite was the Smeets Whisky Cask, with its spiced caramel and bit of peat essence. Senna Meloni, traveling mixologist, led a cocktail demonstration to show how well the Smeets Extra Genever combined in a “Spicy Juniper,” an “Apple a Day,” and a “Basil Smash.” (Shout-out to all you bartenders out there: it’s definitely time to get inspired by genever in its many styles.)

I bid farewell to Amsterdam with genever flowing in my veins. How fascinating that a 500-year-old beverage has so many facets and stories; each sip is a taste of the past and an inspiration for the future. Some distillers extol the classic style, some are experimental, some focus on craft, others on technical matters. The results truly offer something for every spirit lover. So, seek out some genever for inspiration of your own, and welcome genever back to America with open arms and a thirsty palate.


All photos ©2018 Annie Edgerton, Wine Minx Media

Sunday, November 25, 2018

TOP 20 UNDER $20 OF 2018!!

My popular annual list of values is BAAAAACK! It's always exciting to find a wine you love that is an excellent value, and these all are amazing finds. This year, oddly, no U.S. wines made the list -- I've written about a ton of sub-$20 American stunners in the past, but just didn't stumble upon a new fave over the last 12 months. (#2019goals!) Some surprises in there -- a white Rioja and a red Rioja Reserva... a C么te R么tie... a Bordeaux... a white Port -- it's almost unheard of to find such quality from those regions at this low price point. But there is something here for everyone, every mood, every meal, every whim. Enjoy!

White: 


2015 CVNE Monopole White Rioja (Spain)
Light and zippy but also unctuous. Pretty darn tasty! Notes of white flowers, green plum, sugar snap peas (!!) pear, lemon, and straw, with a steely minerality. Easy going down but has a great presence. ~$12

Image result for Josef Ehmoser von den Terrassen Gr眉ner Veltliner2016 Josef Ehmoser von den Terrassen Gr眉ner Veltliner (Austria)
Lemon-lime citrus, herbs and white pepper, on the savory side. A stellar summer quaffer — refreshing, goes down easy, but has personality. This baby joined me at the beach on more than one occasion. ~$13

2016 Tania & Vincent Car锚me Terr茅 Brulee Chenin Blanc (South Africa)
Heady nose of honeysuckle, with some yellow apple and white peach, but this baby is queen of shortbread cookie/toffee/straw/cloves/almond secondary and developed notes. Mouthcoating. Luxe. ~$19
Image result for Vila Nova Vinho Verde 
2017 Vila Nova Vinho Verde (Portugal)
White flower perfume, tangy spice, (even a little pepper,) peach and yellow apples, super tasty quaffer. Haven’t historically been knocked out by many Vinho Verdes, but this one stands out from the crowd. ~$12

2017 Yalumba Y Series “Unwooded” Chardonnay (Australia)
Florals, green fruits, citrus, stone fruits abound. Tropical and herbal too. With toasty, dough-y notes from lees contact. Lots going on but doesn’t punch you in the head. ~$12

NV Churchill’s Dry White Port (Portugal)
I am so glad this squeezed in (on a technicality, as it’s a 500ml sized bottle!) Medium gold color, with smoke, caramel, mandarin peel, nutty, and herbal notes. Intense, dense, rich, super-long finish. Just some initial caramel-ly sweetness at the start. Although it says "Port," this is really an aperitif or something creative to pair with a meal, NOT a “dessert wine!” ~$20 (h/litre: 500ml)

Image result for 2017 La Tour Bois茅e Minervois Blanc2017 La Tour Bois茅e Minervois Blanc (France)
This field blend of 6 southern French grapes is a little funky and savory, but florals and green fruits balance it out. Unctuous and rich (at 14%!) but still quaffable. ~$12

2017 Massimo Daldia Vernaccia di San Gimigniano DOCG (Italy)
Mouth-filling compact fruit, with elderflowers, lemon curd, ripe pear and quince, some nice grassiness, and unctuousness from lees contact. Creamy! ~$19

Ros茅: 

2017 Cabernet de Saumur R茅serve des Vignerons Ros茅 (France)
So tasty, and what a bargain! Rose petals, lime, red grapefruit, red and black fruits galore, some white pepper, rosemary, and flint. Over-delivers at ~$8

2017 Domaine Lafond Roc-脡pine Tavel Ros茅 (France)
Fruity, spicy, loooooong finish. Tavel is a Southern Rh么ne region that ONLY makes ros茅s, and this is why. Cherry, strawberry, rasbperry, with roses, and tomato leaf, and herbs, and juicy nectarine, and watermelon, and white pepper, and, and, and. ~$19

Red: 

Image result for 2017 Ch. de la Bonneli猫re Rive Gauche Chinon
2017 Ch. de la Bonneli猫re Rive Gauche Chinon (France)
This is a heavy-duty (yet crowd-pleasing) red, with cherry, cranberry, blackberry fruit, and loads of earthiness—tobacco, cedar, leather, tea leaf— plus smoke, caramel toffee and buttery smoothness. ~$15

2016 Espor茫o Quinta dos Mur莽as Minas (Portugal)
All the purple, all the time. Florals and fruit. Plus savory notes, caramel. Kind of a liqueur feel to the fruit, so warm and rich. LOVE. ~$17 (N.B. The Reserva of this wine is going to run you $30-40, but I was OBSESSED with the 2015 Reserva, so if you feel like a little splurge, definitely go there.)
Image result for 2016 Naroa Pinot Noir Gran Reserva

2016 Naroa Pinot Noir Gran Reserva (Chile)
Ticks all the boxes: floral, fruity, earthy, and spicy. Its refreshing high acid screams for food pairing, but this plush pinot is also great on its own. ~$17

2009 Ch. Haut Plaisance Montagne St-Emilion (France)
Great cassis, black cherry, blackberry fruit, with mocha, graphite, licorice, pepper. Tannins aren’t overbearing. An elegant experience, but this can improve too. ~$12

2016 Agniuli Primitivo (Italy)
Tasty and rich, with spiced rose potpourri, cherry, blackberry, plum, lifted by a clean eucalyptus note, and grounded with a bit o’ barnyard. Mouthcoating! ~$19

2016 Domaine Faillen Ste Marie Corbi猫res (France)
Deep, dark, rustic, and intense, this Languedoc bruiser will pair beautifully with winter stews and roasted meats. Florals, blackberry, bramble, spice box, lavender/rosemary garrigue, and some funky merde and leather. Big-boy tannins hit hard, but smooth out over the finish. 14.5% alc, and only ~$13

Image result for opera lambrusco2017 Ca Montanari Opera 02 Lambrusco (Italy)
This is a dry style Lambrusco, which is a bubbly red from Italy. You get fresh dark berry fruits and a pleasant herbal earthiness, buoyed by the zesty pink bubbles. Easy drinking and a crowd-pleaser, even among all levels of wineaux. ~$17

2015 F. Merlin C么te R么tie (France)
A C么te R么tie for under twenty bucks?!? Crazy. Hugely intense, florals, black fruit salad, lavender, and a choco-vanilla thing going on. Elegant, rich, luxe, succulent, dense. Outstanding. ~$17

2012 Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva (Spain)
This hearty red delivers! Lots of fresh black cherry, cassis, lilac florals, with herbs and spice, sage and licorice, and a foundation of mocha. Delish. ~$ 17

2016 Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais (France)
Light, fruity, fun... but def not wimpy or too “girly,” this Beauj is holiday heaven. Great for gatherings all through the holiday season. The natural acidity pairs beautifully with food, and it’s comfy like a warm blanket. ~$16

EXTRA CREDIT:
2017 Terlan Pinot Grigio (Italy)
This baby narrowly misses the criteria, but I just HAD to include it, because it is truly a fantastic Pinot Grigio. It is rich, high in alcohol, unctuous, great flavors of chamomile, pear, melon, tarragon, lemon zest. This is NOT the neutral, blah, inoffensive PG your Auntie likes… but give it to her anyway! ~$22

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There you have it, Wineaux. Once again I ponder raising the bar to 25 wines under $25, because there is so much goodness in the $20-25 range. Perhaps next year!

May we all drink well in 2019...

Cheers!