PORTUGAL'S PARADOX

About once a year on this blog, I extol the virtues of wines from Portugal.  I can't help it; they are delicious, generally quite affordable, appeal to a range of preferences and are becoming easier and easier to find.

So how come y'all don't know more about Portuguese wines?!?!

I'll tell you why: CONFUSION.  To start with, there are over 250 different grape varieties in Portugal, and these are not your typical Chardonnays and Shirazes.  Also, wines are made in regions that span the entire country without much of their own brand awareness (i.e., not "Bordeaux".)  Hence the paradox - what makes Portuguese wines so wonderful is precisely what makes them so hard to understand.

So what is a Minx to do?

Well, I will just keep chipping away, Wineaux, tantalizing you with mouthwatering descriptions and low price points.  (Eventually it'll stick!)  Ready?

If you're looking for a nice summer white, try the 2012 Aveleda Vinho Verde.  Most Vinho Verdes are a blend or made from other grapes like Loureiro but this is 100% Alvarinho (= Spain's Alvariño) and it has floral aromas with a hint of salinity and lemon curd.  In the mouth it is bright and acidic with a light melony finish.  I'm already feeling the summer sun.  ~$10

You know how I like strange wines?  I really liked the oddness of the 2009 Campolargo Arinto from Bairrada.  It's 100% Arinto (if you've even heard of that grape) but has a somewhat Chardonnay-like vibe.  The nose was full of straw, hazelnut, ripe melon, dried herbs and a nice earthiness.  In the mouth it was somewhat bitter - not a bad thing - with medium acidity but a LOOOOOOOONG balanced length.  Odd, maybe, but very intriguing.  I should try it again with grilled swordfish! ~$19

For a multi-faceted and slightly hedonistic white, try the 2011 Esporão Branco Reserva from Alentejo.  A blend of a bunch of some more grapes you've never heard of (Antão Vaz, Roupeiro & our new pal Arinto) and one you may have (Semillon), this has a nose of white flowers and butterscotch.  The mouthfeel is round, with flavors of taffy, citrus and melon, and the finish is nicely balanced with medium acidity.  I'm definitely snapping up some of this baby.  ~$15

White wines from Portugal are finally reaching a competitive level of quality, but the table reds have been knocking Wineau socks off for a while now.  Take the 2007 Quinta da Garrida Aliança Reserva from the Dão: a blend of Tinta Roriz (same as Tempranillo from Spain), Touriga Nacional with a hint of Jaen, the nose shows bright blueberry and black raspberry.  In the mouth it is light and pleasant - a great option for those who like lighter-styed red wines - with good fruit and a light structure of mild acidity and hardly any noticeable tannin.  This is elegant and complex with age-related notes of herbs and dusty cherry. ~$12

If you want a little more structure, try the 2010 Quinta do Casal Monteiro, Colheita Seleccionada DOC from Tejo.  The nose blossoms with ripe crunchy fruit - berry salad galore - and a bit of green stemminess with violet florals.  While more structured than the Aliança, it's still a light, pleasant quaffable red.  You've gotta try this, especially for ~$10.

Are you a fan of Italian wines?  The 2007 Monte da Penha Tinto Reserva has the elegant earthiness of many Italian favorites in spades.  It's a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonês, Alicante Bouschet and Moreto.  (I could just say "blah blah blah blah blah," but I do want these names to become familiar!)  With a nose of sweet oak and dark chocolate, it is dense and dark with a long, integrated, luxurious, earthy finish.  ~$18

Regular readers will know I like oddball wines and I looooove SEXY wines.  The sexiest wine of the day was hands down the 2009 Quinta do Passadouro Reserva from the Douro.  It's what is called a "field blend," meaning that the plantings are so old and unregulated that a bunch of different varieties grow and are picked and processed all a-jumble.  But they are (pretty) sure Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Sousão are in there somewhere!  This nose has candied lavender, blackberry liqueur and blueberry pie.  I could smell this baby all day.  But there's more: in the mouth, it is velvety, dense and ripe with apparent tannins and BIG fruit.  It could use some more time to age but I definitely won't turn a glass down now.  ~$14.

While Portugal is historically known for Port, its other dessert wine that you must meet is Moscatel.  I loved the 2009 Bacalhôa Moscatel de Setúbal from the Setúbal Peninsula.  Coppery orange in color, it had a nose of toasted caramel with a bit of apricot and orange peel.  In the mouth, its high acidity balanced the sweetness so it was not cloying at all, and the fruit expression was lovely.  Have it with a foie gras course or at the end of the meal with cheese, or even chocolate. ~$12

All of the above wines were handpicked by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein for a Wines of Portugal event.  During the walk-around tasting afterwards, I sampled some other favorites, although I have had a little difficulty ensuring their availability.  They all do have importers, so some of you might come across them!

White: 2012 Quinta do Casal Monteiro, from Tejo, made from Arinto and Fernão Pires.  Herby and floral nose.  Crisp and clean for summer, herbs and lots of lemon but not overly acidic.  ~$10

Rosé: 2012 Casa Cadaval Padre Pedro, also from Tejo and a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Merlot.  (Merlot!  You know good ol' Merlot.  Oh, but this is a rosé... so it's still confusing.)  Great floral nose, with tons of strawberry and mineral notes, very quaffable and very tasty. ~$12

Red: 2009 Duorum Reserva Old Vines João Portugal Ramos.  Sweet oak, dense and concentrated, abundant florals, tightly packed fruit, high structure, big and brassy.  ~$25

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So there you have it, the latest in my treatise championing the virtues of Portuguese wines.  Even if your local store doesn't have any of these particular wines, ask your merchant for recommendations that will suit your palate (not to mention your pocketbook.)  I look forward to hearing about your new favorites as we work to eradicate this paradox.  Cheers!

2010 BORD-EAUX-LA-LA...

It may come as no surprise that 2010 is supposed to be another stellar vintage in Bordeaux.  It seems after 2000, 2005 and 2009, the critics are unanimously weighing in with enthusiasm about yet another incredible vintage.  And guess what?  I agree.

In January, I attended the Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2010 Vintage tasting in New York City.  (At this point in my Minx-dom I do not get invitations to fly over for En Primeur advance tastings, but I will.  Oh, I will.)

I did not have a lot of time to taste leisurely at this event, and realize my notes have more than a few holes, but this quick-and-dirty experience was still overwhelmingly positive.   The one sub-region where I felt the wines did not immediately express themselves to the high level I expected was Pauillac, but I do expect these wines to develop.  I also wanted a little more from the dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac, however, these also need time to grow and mature.

That's a big point, actually: tasting Bordeaux wines so soon after release is a kind of infanticide.  They are meant to age and evolve, some for decades.  And yet we Wineaux have to pounce on the new vintage, shouting our critiques from the rooftops.  While many of these wines are enjoyable now (albeit rough and tumble,) if they intrigue you, be sure to put aside some bottles and take the journey of a true Bordeaux-lover over the next twenty years.

A COUPLE OF WHITES: (These you can drink now!)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) : 70% Sauv Blanc, 30% Sémillon.  Very pale with an aromatic nose, quite tart but excellent fruit and SweeTarts candy.  I like. (~$60)

Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan) : 51 Sauv Blanc, 33 Sémillon, 13 Sauv Gris, 3 Muscadet.  FLORAL aromatics (hello Muscadet/Sauv Gris?!) tangy, interesting. Well-intigrated.  (~$160)

THE MAIN EVENT: 

Châteu de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) : 70 Cab Sauv, 10 Merlot, 10 Cab Franc, 10 Petit Verdot.  Bright fruit, strong expression.  Very nice.  (~$60)

Château Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Léognan) : Very earthy, merde-y, light fruit, more terroir and leather, supple tannins. (~$150)

Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan) : Nice nose, quite soft considering youth, very tannic but smooth, black cassis.  Very nice. (~$210)

Château Beauregard (Pomerol) : Soft violets, dark berries, bit of dusty tannins and chocolate. (~$55)

Château Clinet (Pomerol) : Black fruits, tightly wound.  Chocolate, some lavender.  Wow - can't wait to see what this does in a few years! (~$170)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) : Violets, gorgeous amazeballs nose.  Rich, velvety, herbs - somewhat light fruit on the finish. (~$250)

Château Belgrave (Haut-Médoc) : Cranberry, strawberry, very nice feminine style - flirty.  Florals and herbs on the finish. (~$40)

Château Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc) :  52 Cab Sauv, 35 Merlot, 8 Cab Franc, 5 Petit Verdot.  Dense - brick dust, dirt, dark red cherries.  This will take a WHILE to develop.  (~$45)

Château La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) : Red cherries, dirt, bit of cherry liqueur at the finish, not too earthy. (~$70)

Château La Tour de By (Médoc) : Berry syrup, behind-the-teeth tannins, like eating dirt and cherry baked in a pie.  Nice! (~$22)

Château Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) : Nice components, SMOOTH integration!  Great fruit and structure.  Wow. (~$95)

Château Cantenac Brown (Margaux) : Spice box and cherry, florals on finish.  Very nice - bit more of a terroir expression.  (~$70)

Château Prieuré-Lichine (Margaux) : Sexy black fruit, lavender. Very yummy. (~$70)

Château Gruaud Larose (Saint-Julien) : Sweet oak, GREAT fruit.  Bright and rich red fruit. (~$85)

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac) : Black fruit, light - thin-ish in the mouth. (~$105)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) : Very earthy terroir, bit vegetative.  Hm. (~$190)

Château Pichon-Longueville, Baron (Pauillac) : Earthy, somewhat thin in mouth but nice notes, florals, fruit on finish.  Elegant but lightweight. (~$250)

Château Peélan-Ségur (Saint-Estèphe) : Lovely perfumey nose, super smooth.  Good acidity, very very very nice.  Robust red fruits.  (~$55)

DESSERT:  

Château Doisy Daëne (Barsac) : Closed nose.  Lemon curd, sugary. (~$30/375ml)

Château Guiraud (Sauternes) : Floral, light, flirty - nice.  Candied melon. (~$33/375ml)

Château La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) : Interesting - marzipan?!?  Floral, little funky. (~$45/375ml)

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) : Perfumey, light honey, light caramel. (~$35/375ml)

Château Suduiraut (Sauternes) : Honey, florals, bit of botrytis.  Light & nice. (~$48/375ml)

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Well, there you have it - this Wine Minx's knee-jerk reaction to the 2010 Bordeaux wines.  All in all - from a region trying to reclaim its status amongst younger Wineaux who need to be convinced that Bordeaux wines are not stodgy, overpriced status symbols - an exciting offering.

Let me know how you find them!  Cheers!

__________          __________          __________          __________

A little overview for the Burgeoning Wineaux: 

- Bordeaux is a region in western France, and is one of the most storied and historical wine-producing areas of the world, with sub-regions all with individual terroirs and personalities.

- The whites are typically from Graves and Pessac-Léognan and are a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.  Recently, some other grapes are elbowing their way into the blend.  

 - The reds are usually Cabernet Sauvignon-based on the Left Bank (see the map above) and Merlot-based on the Right Bank.  Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot are often blended in and Carménère and Malbec are also allowed. 

 - The dessert wines are from Sauternes and Barsac, from blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, very sweet with high residual sugar, often affected by the Noble Rot botrytis cinerea, commonly sold in 375ml bottles.  

 - All Bordeaux wines command high prices, and the reds and dessert wines have the capacity to age for 20-30 years or more.  Even the whites can develop with some age.

CLEVER IDEA, BUT DOES IT WORK?

Dave Phinney, the creative mastermind behind Orin Swift (The Prisoner and others,) has embarked on another cheeky scheme; make a wine that in one fell swoop defines an entire country's terroir.

I am on the fence about this concept, Wineaux.  On one hand, it is an interesting gamble to see if blending a number of a particular country's signature grapes somehow distills the entire character of a huge area into one wine.  On the other hand, I think it is an absolutely ridiculous idea.

Take France for example (as I am currently sampling "F1" - for France) in Phinney's new Locations series.  This wine is a blend of Grenache from the Roussillon, Syrah from the Rhône and "assorted Bordeaux varietals".  It does not seem to be vintage designated, although 2011 was their first vintage so I imagine that's what I'm drinking.  (The label is like those stickers Europeans put on their cars to say what country they're from... cute.  But there's no vintage to be found, and relatively little other information, for that matter.)

So, the thing is, of course France is a huge and significant winemaking country with a storied history.  Grapes that grow in the northern areas are not typically blended with grapes that grow in the southern areas, with good reason.  They are signatures even of their sub-regions.  Northern Rhône - Syrah is king.  Grenache is very successful in the South of France.  Bordeaux varieties - well, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns on the Left bank and Merlot on the Right, but I imagine this could include Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and even Malbec.  Someone deciding to smush these all together is plain CUH-RAZY.

Well, you know what they say about genius and crazy... they kind of go hand in hand.
So the real question is: does it work?

Wineaux, I'm not going to say that this is the best wine I've ever had in my entire life, but I will grant you this: yes, it's pretty tasty.

I am getting the spice from the Syrah, the black fruit from the Grenache, and the Cabernet Sauvignon's structure for sure.  The wine is dense and complex, if a little fumble-y in the mouth.  I love the violet and lavender florals but they kind of butt heads against the ripe strawberry jam and meaty notes.   This wine makes me wonder how the whole process went down - my wine-nerdiness wants to know about harvesting and vinification - but the result is a pretty big, relatively interesting French red for around $16, so who can complain about that?

Ultimately, I would recommend this wine, especially for its value, but I remain wary of the gimmick.  It remains a clever idea, but the jury is still out if this experiment truly works.

FYI - Phinney also makes a Spanish offering - "E 1" - that I will attempt to seek out, and is at work on an Italian example.  (THAT one I'm very curious to try!  Let's blend Nebbiolo and Sangiovese and Aglianico and Nero d'Avola and and and?!?! Hm...)

I remain on the fence - I love the gall in attempting this, but wonder if Phinney should have put down the proverbial Oenophile Crack Pipe before embarking on this odd odyssey.  It's at least worth a try, so seek it out and let me know what you think!  I'd love to hear what your experiences are.

Cheers!

TOP 20 UNDER $20 of 2012!!

This is it!  The post you've all been anxiously waiting for!  My annual list of amazing and AFFORDABLE wines is finally here.

I made the list actually 21 this year, since one of my faves might not yet be available in the U.S.  But we get new imports all the time, and it's reallllly good, so I had to include it.  In 2012, it seems as if Spain and Italy (and Washington State!) were the places to go for value finds.  Also I came across a lot of rosés that were outstanding values.  (If you’re not a big rosé drinker, it’s definitely time to start experimenting!  Do not unfairly judge the PINK.)  And my two TOP PICKS were both from Portugal, where I’ve long tried to steer Wineaux to find amazing wines at great values.  I tasted hundreds of different wines this year, always looking for the best bangs for the buck… and here they are.  There’s a little something for everyone, including some slightly more unusual finds.  You know I like “weird” wines, and some of these really show how enjoyable oddballs can be!  Cheers.

WHITE:

2011 Domaine de Belle Vue Sauvignon Gris, Loire, France $14 – Sauv Gris is a Sauv Blanc cousin from the Loire. Gorgeous balance of round mouthfeel and high citrusy acidity.   Pear and lemongrass on nose, minerally with white peach/tangerine in mouth and a grassy finish.  Clean but warm.  Sounds schitzo but isn't!

It sure LOOKS like a European label, doesn't it?
These guys are a little whimsical.
And cheeky.

2011 Independent Producers Dionysus Vineyard Chardonnay, Washington State $14 - Rich & viscous US Chard with no oak but lots of oomph.  Loads of spice and minerality balance the pear and stone fruit flavors.  Very long finish. >>

2010 La Miranda de Secastilla Garnacha Blanca, Viñas del Vero, DO Somontano, Spain $15 - Heady nose of florals and peachy nectar.  Perfectly balanced acidity.  Rich but clean and food friendly.  Loads of fruit and florals.  Yum.

2010 Jed Steele Shooting Star Aligoté, Washington State $16 - Aligoté is the oft-overshadowed second white grape of Burgundy – this one hails from Washington state and is appley/citrusy with a smooooth finish, unusual and verrrry yummy.

ROSÉ:

2011 Viñaluz Rosado, Bodegas Real, Spain $3 - Yes, three dollars.  Granted, I got it on sale (down from a whopping $7,) but either way, this wine is a stupid-crazy value. Bright, rich, great berry/cherry notes, lip-smacking.

NV Dürnberg Brut Sparkling Rosé, Austria $10 - You know I love sparklers. This is made from the red Zwigelt Austrian grape, and is floral and lightly fruity but dry dry dry.  Great for a party! 

2011 Ontañón Vetiver Rosado DOCa Rioja, Spain $12 - Bright pink.  Earth, minerals and strawberry on the nose.  Chewy fruit, not "too sweet" seeming.  Balanced with herby elements and good acidity.  Very nice.

<< 2011 Heredade do Esporão, Defesa Rosé, Portugal $13 – A lot of depth of flavor.  Minerality, berries, a bit of meatiness…  Just fantastic!  It quenches your thirst and yet you race back to the bottle - so satisfying, I could drink it all day.  TOP PICK.

 

2011 Wolffer Rosé $15 from Long Island, NY  Pale salmon pink, with underripe strawberry, minerality, salinity.  Very scrumptious for such a light wine.  Good acidity with florals, bitter herbs, minerals, tart cherries.  Dependable and food-friendly. >>

RED:

2010 Bodegas Real "Nazares" Tempranillo, Spain $6 – The quality of entry level Tempranillos can be tough to navigate; this one is absolutely yummy – especially at this price!  Crafted in a more youthful style for drinking now, it has soft and round berry salad flavors.

2011 Cantina Vallebelbo Sparkling Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG, Italy $12 - light rose and berries with a SLIGHT sweetness, gorgeous balance of herbs and fruit and freshness.  Party wine, easy quaffer, fun and flirty.  Might not yet be available in the US.  (I’m working on it!)

<< 2011 Edgebaston The Pepper Pot, South Africa $13 – A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Grenache, Tannat, AND Viognier, this inky red is rich and spicy with loads of pepper and dark fruits.  Structured, but smooooth – and, dare I say, sexy?!  Pretty heavy-duty but not overpowering, and a bit unusual.

2009 Cortes de Cima Red, Portugal $15 – Dark fruits, good integrated tannins, rich and full but velvety.  Very nice - this is so huge, it cries out for food!  This blend of Syrah, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet is a great value.  TOP PICK.

2007 Martínez Lacuesta Crianza DOCa Rioja, Spain $16 - Spicy!  Smoky, good fruit, meaty with lush ripe cherry.  Good balance of fruit and earthier elements, and a nice finish.  

Sorry about the candle wax - I had this on hand
when the lights went out during Hurricane Sandy.

2010 Montalbera Grignolino d'Asti, Italy $17 - Unusual color, pale orangey/brick-y.  Cherry cola nose, wonderfully strange!  Light but complex flavors of black cherry, some herbs and a bit peppery.  Good acid and yet smooth.  So interesting and unusual - Pinot Noir fans must try! >>

<< 2008 Weinhof Scheu Pinot Noir, Germany $17 – Riesling is the star in Germany, but this Pinot is a lovely find.  Incredibly light seeming but with a strong presence of cherry, earth, pepper and tea rose floral notes.

2011 Conti di Buscareto Lacrima di Morro D'Alba, Italy $18 - Not the Alba in Piedmont, but in Marche.  Dark bright magenta.  Florals - lavender, roses!  Very smooth, super light acidity, hint of supple tannins.  Violets and dark cherries in mouth.  Kind of like a Beaujolais Gamay... but not at all like it too!

2010 Mas des Chimères Oeillade Languedoc, France $19 - A meaty earthiness with dusty spice on the nose, this 100% Grenache has dark berries, minerals, a hint of charcoal, rose, smoked meat and herbs.  Medium-bodied, but spicy richness and long length in the mouth.  Bring on the funk.

The Barbera on this list is on the left.
Alas the Barbera on the right is NOT under $20. 

2010 Qupé Syrah Central Coast, California $19 - Very herbalicious!  Lots of rosemary, light, yet very well-structured.  It's hard to find a “Rhône Ranger” Syrah with this much personality at this price point.

2009 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne, Italy $19 - CHERRY! Black cherry liqueur, herbs and cola.  Very perfumey in mouth, bright crunchy forward fruit.  Good tart acidity but smooth finish.  Somewhat of a masculine style from vineyards abutting legendary Barolo. >>

Well, Wineaux, there you have it.  Please let me know if you try any of these amazing finds!  And always let me know if you come across some superb under-$20 values yourself... everyone's wallet will thank you.

Cheers!

GIVING THANKS: FOR WINE.

photo via How to Roast a Turkey (The Simple Way)by Aimee of Simple Bites

Oh, Wineaux - this is the perennial question: what, oh what, to serve with Thanksgiving dinner?!?!

This question transcends the usual food-and-wine-pairing quandaries.  Thanksgiving dinner is arguably the most scrutinized meal of the year for American families.  It is a gathering fraught with family-dynamic stresses.  Not to mention culinary ones: cooking a large turkey can be a pain in the rear.

Even if you have a relatively harmonious group of relatives and a sure-fire way of brining your bird, the fact of the matter is that Thanksgiving dinner is a pretty bland affair.

Boring turkey, fatty gravy, bready stuffing, other starchy sides mashed within an inch of their lives... maybe, just maybe, a tang of cranberry.  "What in the world do you pair with this?"  Wineaux ask me every year.

The answer is not that helpful:

"Pretty much anything."

Before you fling a spoonful of mashed potatoes in my face, hear me out.  With the exception of a humongous, hearty red wine, almost any other wine will stand up to this blob of boring, starchy food.

A white with a lot of acidity will cut through the fat of the gravy and butter-infused starches.  A heartier white with maybe less acidity will balance out the bland turkey (I mean, come on - even if it's juicy, turkey is pretty bland, people.)  A light red with good acidity and even a medium-bodied red will enliven the table of beige in front of you.

But wait - before you whine, "That Minx is no help at ALL, so we'll just open that Cheapo Chard Aunt Maud brought," let me implore you to have some fun with your wine choices this Thanksgiving!

You put an array of food out there on the table in front of you, why not do the same with wine?  Grab a few extra glasses off the shelf and let your guests pour a few different wines to sample with their meal.  Each guest can have a smorgasbord of food-and-wine-pairing options in front of him or her!

Here are some ideas to get you started:

Champagne or other sparkling wine: (White or Rosé)
Champagne is festive, Thanksgiving is festive, Champagne is Thanksgiving, QED.  Plus, the bubbles and acidity will perk up the food.  If your budget is tight, try a sparkling Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, a Spanish Cava, or an American bubbly like my faves Gruet (from New Mexico, of all places!) and Domaine Chandon.

Grüner Veltliner from Austria: (White)
With light, citrus fruit and a characteristic note of white pepper, GV is an easy-drinking and affordable white option.  Just call it "Groo-ner."  While many people, myself included, usually think of Grüners as a summertime quaffer, they are a good wine to have on hand as a lighter option in this kind of array.

Alsatian Riesling, Gewürztraminer or Pinot Blanc: (White)
I have twice in the past month enjoyed outstanding wines from Alsace with my meal.  The 2005 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Clos des Capucins was viscous and rich with outrageously heady florals - a party in its own right, and perfect to pair with food.  (~$60)  Also, scroll down to the prior Hurricane post for my reports on some of MaisonTrimbach's amazing offerings.  Gewürz-es will have rounder fruit and spice, and the Pinot Blancs will show more clean citrus when they're young and gain a special complexity as they age.

Beaujolais (Beaujolais Nouveau): (Red)
Beaujolais is a region in France near Burgundy and it is where the Gamay grape shines.  Gamay is one of the lightest, flirtiest red grapes out there.  And later this week (Nov 15 to be exact,) le Beaujolais Nouveau will be arrivée!  The Nouveau is the first wine - from anywhere - released from this year's harvest, because the freshness of this grape requires no aging.  It is made to be consumed straightaway, so it coincides wonderfully with our Thanksgiving holiday, and darned if it doesn't go perfectly with this kind of meal.

Spanish Grenache: (Red)
Another favorite grape for the crunchy red berry, cranberry, pomegranate experience.  In many cases, it will also exhibit spicy notes, chocolate, and dark fruits for a richer experience.  Ask your wine merchant for a recommendation - as Grenache is a less-common solo grape variety, chances are your purveyor has hand-picked his or her selections and will be very familiar with their personalities.  These should also be quite affordable with many good options under $20.

The Boom Boom Syrah, a rosé from Provence,
and a bubbly (Cava) that is ALSO rosé!

New World Syrah: (Red)
Like our friend Grenache, Syrah wines can swing far into the spicy, meaty, big and bold range.  But there are some, like the 2011 Charles Smith Boom Boom Syrah from Washington state, that gloriously exhibit a berry salad of fruit.  I have written about this wine before, and return to it again and again for its fun personality and brightness.

Viognier: (White)
A white grape that should have more fans, Viognier is naturally lower in acid so often ends up as a richer wine-drinking experience in the glass.  Some styles are light and floral, but there are others - many from CA or Australia - that are quite complex.  And many from the South of France have intense herb and earthy notes.

Rosé: (erm, Rosé)
Finally people are catching on to the idea that rosé wines aren't just for the summer.  Since they can be made well from almost every red grape, just imagine the array of styles out there!  With the lightness of a white wine and the oomph from the red grape skins and personalities, you have to try at least one rosé with your Bird.  I did a post in 2011 highlighting a number of different styles if you need a few ideas: Rosé Around the World, or, Not Yo' Momma's White Zin.

Me: "Maggie, put the bottle down before you
drink it all, I need to get a picture for my blog!"

And, please, skip the White Zin - if you want something a little sweet, try a German Riesling Auslese or a slightly sweet Brachetto from Italy, like the NV Banfi Rosa Regale.  Muuuuuuch better.

Here's hoping your Thanksgiving is a glorious celebration with family and friends, and if it is also an opportunity to sample a few different wines, so much the better!

Cheers!

HURRICANES AND WINE GO HAND IN HAND...

I am a proud New Yorker.  And, like many of my neighbors, I have spent most of the last week in the dark.  After Hurricane Sandy came through, I have had to read by candlelight and walk 30 blocks to shower and wear two sweaters at night and throw out everything in my fridge except for a few condiments.  Now that my power - oh, blessed power! - is restored, I can post about a topic that just about everyone dealing with Hurricane Sandy knows: hurricanes and wine go hand in hand.

As I write, many are still completely devastated by the aftermath of this storm.  I have dear friends who live in Far Rockaway, literally steps from the ocean, who now have three feet of sand blocking access to their house (which, mercifully, was otherwise unaffected.)  I have other close friends who live in Hoboken, who had to evacuate their building wearing garbage bags as makeshift waders, who have lost everything they were storing in the basement.  Photographs, mementos, linens, clothes, files... irreplaceable markers of their lives.

There are still thousands without power, gasoline, and even homes that may never be restored.  If you are inclined, you can help by making a donation to the American Red Cross. Click here for their Hurricane Sandy relief page.

That said, most people I know spent the past week up to their eyeballs in WINE.

Here's a little about my Hurricane Wine Week:

I was sipping on a NV Gruet Blanc de Noirs when the power went out.  I opened my fridge super fast to grab the bottle and put it in my bathtub (which I'd already filled with water) to keep it cool long enough to drink.  As it got warmer and warmer, I drank it faster and faster.

The next night, my friend Carol (another refugee from NY's newest neighborhood, SoPo [South of Power]) and I walked uptown to some other friends' for dinner and wine and a shower.  Steve and Carlos were incredibly generous with their home... and their wine.  Notably, a Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella - as you know, I adore Amarones, and I'm sorry I didn't record the vintage, it was lovely.  A 2001 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was simply gorgeous and drinking wonderfully.  As the meal wound down and the conversation wound up, we hit a couple of Burgunides: a 2008 Drouhin Meursault-Perrières, and a 2009 Domaine de la Vougerie Pommard Les Petits Noizons, and headed to the finish line with a 2007 Voge Cornas "Vielles Vignes" from the Rhône.  Sooooo amazing, such a wonderful bounty to share - I will never be able to repay them.  But I promised that sometime soon they'd come to my house and I'd try.

When the trains running to CT came online again, I hoofed it to Grand Central Station and hopped out to see my folks.  They had definitely dodged a bullet - a few trees were down on their property but none had damaged the house.  One GIANT pine tree fell on the driveway, but Dad was able to pull out the chainsaw and carve a path out.  However large the tree looks in this picture, it is much bigger in reality.  The upper edge of the root swath stood at least 9 feet in the air.

Luckily they'd also kept power, so I hopped in the shower - praise hot water! - because we were going to a wine dinner in a nearby town that had also managed to keep power.  And not twenty minutes later... my folks' power went out!  Gaaah.  However, Dad had a generator that switched on, so there were a few lights, one working plug to charge our phones, and one shower that would stay warm.

What else to do but... go to the wine dinner and drink lots of wine!  This dinner was an event at Boulevard 18 in New Canaan, CT honoring the wines of the Alsace legend Maison Trimbach.  I have long loved Trimbach wines and it was spectacular to sample so many, beautifully paired with a sumptuous six-course meal from Chefs David Raymer and Kerry Dolan.

I adored the 2006 Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Personelle Gold Label.  It was elegant and concentrated, with hazelnut, honey and apricot notes, bright yet rich and sexy, and paired wonderfully with the Wild Mushroom Strudel course.   I also got to try something I'd never had before - the 2009 Trimbach Pinot Noir Reserve.  It's unusual to find many red wines from Alsace, although Pinot Noir does grow well in cooler climates.  This had a cherry and pomegranate nose and was herbal with good fruit in the mouth.  Of course, the star in the Trimbach crown once again shone brightly, and I just lapped up the 2005 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile.  It had a heady nose of petrol and white florals, super unctuous yet flirty, just amazing.  My mother has always fancied this wine, and while there are not many 2005s left on the market, I may pick up a couple of 2006s for her for Christmas.  (I'm such a good daughter.)

Believe me, there were many more bottles consumed over the past week by this Minx.  When you lose power, there is a loss of control.  You worry about your friends and loved ones, and even about strangers a few miles away whose lives have been devastated.  Wine is always a beverage for celebration, but it is also a beverage that soothes and comforts in times like these.

I joked about my hurricane essentials: candles, batteries, water, and lots of wine - but nearly everyone I know turned straight to the vino to help them get through and did not laugh about it.

My thoughts and heart go out to those still dealing with the repercussions of the storm.  We seem to have a nor'easter on its way in a few days, which hopefully won't be too bad for anyone, especially those still recovering from Sandy.  But I will make sure that I restock the essentials: candles, batteries, water, and lots and LOTS of wine.

Cheers -

And please, help in any way you can.  Thank you.

NON, JE NE REGRETTE RIEN. EXCEPT...

I know you all have "those days" when a minor frustration turns into something that makes you want to smack your head.  I like to say I never regret something I've done, only something I didn't do; but in this case, it was leaving my phone behind in my charger and what I didn't do was bring it to the Bordeaux Under One Roof tasting today.

As a professional Wineau who attends numerous industry tastings (most especially to find amazing wines to share with YOU, Reader,) I use my fancy camera phone to snap pictures to illustrate these little stories of mine.  It's a simple but necessary tool.

Sooooo... I was in the lobby of the illustrious Empire State Building when I realized: I didn't have my phone.  Oh well, I'll figure something out, no biggie, I thought.  Until I waltzed out into the space on the 61st floor and saw the amazing 360-degree view.  Wowza.

When all was said and done, I regretted TWO things this day.  1) No proof of the birds'-eye view and the stunning scope of New York City laid out at my feet, and 2) that most of the wines didn't knock my socks off thereby distracting me from regret #1.

Let me say that these were not the Bordeaux from a millionaire's cellar, like the First Growths, even the Second and Third Growths, that are highly rated, globally lauded, cost oodles of money and are usually not even ready to drink for ten years after their release.  These were more entry-level wines from one of the most storied wine regions in the world.  I was hoping to find a ton of wines with a fantastic expression of the region at an affordable price point.  Alas, that may have been too much to hope for.

The handful of whites I tasted (Sauvignon Blancs, some blended with Sémillon and maybe one or two other grapes) all had intoxicating noses.  However, none of them lived up to the promise of the first whiff on the palate.  None were bad - they were just... forgettable.  I've had some lovely white Bordeaux in the past - I've even written about them here - but did not find any new faves today.

Many of the reds were fairly forgettable as well.  To cultivate Bordeaux from a lower price-point, you can look in the outlying regional areas like Entre-Deux-Mers and the Côtes regions (like Côte de Blaye and Côte de Bourg) for values, and I've found many in the past.  But you usually have to wade through a lot of wine that might be decent, but unimpressive.

Frequent readers know by now that the Minx tends toward the "A for Effort" review style - I love wine so much and respect the difficulty in the winemaking process so much that I go into it giving a handicap to anyone who has even managed to put a bottle in front of me.  I'm sure I will gain a firmer harshness as I age and become all crotchety.  So you probably notice that it is unusual for me to write with such a lack of enthusiasm.

HOWEVER!!!!!!

There were a few wines that I did like very much.  (PHEW, right?!)  I mean, it's not a surprise that some producers will actually acheive a good level of success amidst their peers under similar circumstances.

So here are some wines that made the Minx very happy:

2009 Château Barrail Chevrol (~$15) This was one of the best values of the day.  A blend of 86% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, it had a dusty, earthy nose, with big red and black fruits on the palate, and an earthy finish.  The flavor components were balanced, as were the tannins; the Merlot added a nice soft roundness to the finish.

2009 Château Langoiran (~$18) 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc: Nose of blueberries and cedar, soft and rich with nice fruit on the palate, pretty lush and quite balanced.

2009 Château de Malleret Le Baron de Malleret Cru Bourgeois (~$20) A rather soft nose, but the wine was spicy with a nice earthiness and wood intermingled with red fruit.  Good weight in the mouth, nice balance and length.

2008 Château Prieur de Meyney (~$25) This is the second label of Château Meyney, a very solid St.-Estèphe producer.  70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, it had a soft, perfumey nose, with nice violet florals, licorice, and black berries.  It was very lush and yummy.

2009 Château de Cruzeau (~$27) 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc.  Soft and round, drinking well now, nice red fruit, good weight, full mouthfeel, light tannins but a very good value for Bordeaux-lovers.

2008 Château Trimoulet (~$28) Another blend of the "usual suspects," Merlot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv.  Lush red fruit, very heady nose, lots of cassis!  Black berries, bit of pepper, nice structure, drinkable now.

At the end of the day, the view was fantastic but now just a memory.  And many of the wines are now just a memory, but some were pretty fantastic.  In the end,

Non, rien de rien,

Je ne regrette rien!

If you are a Bordeaux fan trying to save a few bucks (or trying to simply find something you don't have to wait ten years to drink,) or someone new to drinking the wines of Bordeaux, these wines will surely satisfy!  I did the weeding out so you don't have to, that's my (wonderful) job.

Cheers!