MAMBO ITALIANO at the TRE BICCHIERI 2015

Every year, the Gambero Rosso organization awards the Tre Bicchieri (or, "three glasses,") to a select number of Italian wines from out of 45,000 sampled. Winners and runners-up are showcased during a world tour, which stopped off in New York early February.

Out of all the industry events I attend every year, the Tre Bicchieri seems to be one of the zaniest. Maybe it's the generally effusive nature of Italians themselves, but I think a lot has to do with the layout: wineries are organized by importer (not region, style, or even alphabetically,) so you're bopping from Franciacorta to Brunello to Amarone to Sicily and back again. Maybe it's also that there are a lot of friends and consumers allowed, so people are drinking more than spitting! Who knows. Just… zany.

As with many industry tastings, it's impossible to sample every single wine. IMPOSSIBLE! (For kicks, you can check out my madcap attempt to hit as many of the 250 wineries at the latest NY Wine Experience as I could.) At this year's Tre Bicchieri, there were 321 wines from 180 producers, so even if you were a speed demon and took only one measly minute to taste each wine, it would still take you almost five and a half hours to hit them all.

So I found a section of the room and just plowed in! ("3B" indicates Tre Bicchieri winners, others received slightly lower rankings.)

As luck would have it, I sampled the Red of the Year first. The 2007 Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva (3B) had great, elegant perfume, was "really delicious," with bright, spicy red cherries and brick dust. Silky tannins, good acidity, looooong length and a chewy finish. ~$300. The 2011 Vietti Barolo Castiglione also had an elegant nose, and was tasty—very floral and very earthy—and integrated. ~$45.

As a bubbly fan, I beelined for the 2009 Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB (3B). It was very yummy/dirty/funky on the nose, with yellow apple, straw, and a good mousse—warm and rich and oomphy. ~$40. I also was intrigued by the 2013 Adami Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Solingo Brut Col Credas (3B). Pear jumped from the nose, with light lemon, minerals, and a bright mousse. Very steely, clean and metallic, cuts like a knife. ~$22.

I also love Amarone (remember when I wondered if it was the Sexiest Wine Ever?) so sampled the 2010 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli (3B). It had tons of black fruit, was very tasty (though maybe not as velvety as I'd hoped,) with good fruit and cola notes. Still very young—I'm prepared to give it some time! ~$75.

The 2009 Morellino di Scansano Calestaia Reserva (3B) was intoxicating. Lots of floral and red fruit perfume, very tasty, bit of tea, spice, good fruit, flirty, well-structured yet approachable now. 100% Sangiovese from Tuscany. ~$42.

Another Tuscan group showed the 2010 Colle Massari Montecucco Sangiovese Lombrone Riserva (3B) with an attractive nose, delicious and complex fruit, spice, and yet easy-drinking. ~$45. I also enjoyed their "Super Tuscan" blend of Bordeaux-grapes and Sangiovese, the 2011 Colle Massari Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Grattamacco—very spicy, robust, lavender florals, tasty, earthy, good tannic structure. ~$75. And the 2009 Colle Massari Brunello di Montalcino Poggio di Sotto again had a great nose, with violet florals, caramel, herbs, chocolate... just lovely. I'll definitely be looking for more from this producer! ~$240.

Some Chiantis from Tuscany tasted next included the 2011 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Colledilà Gran Selezione (3B) with a most amazing nose! Very unusual: brick dust, crushed lavender, red plum, red currant. Lots of structure and intriguing on the palate, but the nose was the best. ~$55. And the 2011 Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva (3B) showed ripe red fruit on the nose, with red and black fruits (supported by 20% Merlot in the blend, no doubt,) with herbs and a pizza-spice-y finish. Tasty. ~$30.

At this point in my tasting, I met up with some friends: Mr. Some Damn Good Wine, Mr. Tolerant Taster, and Mr. NJ Wine and Beer (not every Wineau has a catchy name, but I guess the folks who do tend to gravitate to each other. [You can follow all these wacky Wineaux on the twitter, lose the "Mr."s and look them up!]) Our newly-formed Posse bounced around to some more tables, increasing the zany quotient by a factor of ten.

Hopscotching to Friuli Venezia Giulia, I tried the 2013 Ronco dei Tassi Collio Malvasia (3B)—abundant with minerals, pear, peach and straw, light and herby with a nice grip. ~$18. I really do enjoy Collio wines and was intrigued by the 2011 Ronco dei Tassi Fosarin, a white blend, which was very meaty and pungent, feel of warm hay, and viscous. ~$20. I went nutso over the 2008 Cantina Valpolicalla Negrar Amarone della Valpolicella Classico San Rocco Domini Veneti (3B). Graphite, smoky flintiness, violets! Herby perfume, intoxicating nose. Spicy, rich—THIS is sexy. Warm and ripe with subtle tannins, from a single vineyard. More, please! ~$40.

Back up to Lombardy and Franciacorta again, for the amazing 2007 Ferghettina Franciacorta Pas Dosé 33 Riserva (3B). Soapstone, lemon curd, honey and yellow apple on the nose, very crisp and clean, minerally, bit yeasty (72 months on the lees, so!) Very nice, very tasty. ~$48

Alas, when we made it to Tenuta Sette Ponti (the Winery of the Year,) they were out of their famous 2011 Oreno. Sad face. But the 2012 Tenuta Sette Ponti Saia Feudo Maccari (3B) was dense and spicy, with cocoa and earth, and supple tannins, (~$30) and the 2012 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo was earthy, herby and dense with tasty tart fruit. ~$25.

We all enjoyed the 2010 Velenosi Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare (3B): macerated berry nose, cherry cola, robust and fruity, VERY structured, super tannic, but very, very tasty. ~$50.

Back to white, back to Collio for the 2013 Ronco Blanchis Collio (3B)—spicy!! A true multitude of spices. Warm, round melon and... spice galore. ~$20. Although familiar with Gavi wines, I hadn't yet tried the 2012 Villa Sparina Gavi del Comune di Gavi Monterotondo (3B) which had delicious melon, litchi, great round fruit, and good minerality. Yum. ~$50.

And far be it from me to leave any Franciacorta unturned, so I sipped on the 2004 Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut Lucrezia Etichetta Nera (3B) which was quite perfumey, with florals and sugar cookie (~$150,) and the 2007 Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut Lucrezia CruPerdu, with a very soapy nose, great ripe fruit, pear, yeasty, tasty. ~$135.

Mr. NJ Wine and Beer and I accidentally left the other two in the dust zooming to the other side of the room to find an old friend, the 2010 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (3B). With a grappa-ish, herby nose, and "sweet" fruit, it presented a little too baked for me, alas. Maybe next time! ~$42

I had to fly to a meeting with another Wineau, so bid the remainder of my Posse adieu (or, ciao,) and headed out into the cold with a little Italian zaniness in my step. While I felt like I may have missed some real gems in all the chaos, I was thrilled at the numerous wines I did discover. With the incredible range of wines coming out of all corners of Italy, there truly is something for everyone—so grab three glasses of your own, split a bottle with some friends, and dance the zany night away.

Cheers!

HURRICANES AND WINE GO HAND IN HAND...

I am a proud New Yorker.  And, like many of my neighbors, I have spent most of the last week in the dark.  After Hurricane Sandy came through, I have had to read by candlelight and walk 30 blocks to shower and wear two sweaters at night and throw out everything in my fridge except for a few condiments.  Now that my power - oh, blessed power! - is restored, I can post about a topic that just about everyone dealing with Hurricane Sandy knows: hurricanes and wine go hand in hand.

As I write, many are still completely devastated by the aftermath of this storm.  I have dear friends who live in Far Rockaway, literally steps from the ocean, who now have three feet of sand blocking access to their house (which, mercifully, was otherwise unaffected.)  I have other close friends who live in Hoboken, who had to evacuate their building wearing garbage bags as makeshift waders, who have lost everything they were storing in the basement.  Photographs, mementos, linens, clothes, files... irreplaceable markers of their lives.

There are still thousands without power, gasoline, and even homes that may never be restored.  If you are inclined, you can help by making a donation to the American Red Cross. Click here for their Hurricane Sandy relief page.

That said, most people I know spent the past week up to their eyeballs in WINE.

Here's a little about my Hurricane Wine Week:

I was sipping on a NV Gruet Blanc de Noirs when the power went out.  I opened my fridge super fast to grab the bottle and put it in my bathtub (which I'd already filled with water) to keep it cool long enough to drink.  As it got warmer and warmer, I drank it faster and faster.

The next night, my friend Carol (another refugee from NY's newest neighborhood, SoPo [South of Power]) and I walked uptown to some other friends' for dinner and wine and a shower.  Steve and Carlos were incredibly generous with their home... and their wine.  Notably, a Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella - as you know, I adore Amarones, and I'm sorry I didn't record the vintage, it was lovely.  A 2001 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was simply gorgeous and drinking wonderfully.  As the meal wound down and the conversation wound up, we hit a couple of Burgunides: a 2008 Drouhin Meursault-Perrières, and a 2009 Domaine de la Vougerie Pommard Les Petits Noizons, and headed to the finish line with a 2007 Voge Cornas "Vielles Vignes" from the Rhône.  Sooooo amazing, such a wonderful bounty to share - I will never be able to repay them.  But I promised that sometime soon they'd come to my house and I'd try.

When the trains running to CT came online again, I hoofed it to Grand Central Station and hopped out to see my folks.  They had definitely dodged a bullet - a few trees were down on their property but none had damaged the house.  One GIANT pine tree fell on the driveway, but Dad was able to pull out the chainsaw and carve a path out.  However large the tree looks in this picture, it is much bigger in reality.  The upper edge of the root swath stood at least 9 feet in the air.

Luckily they'd also kept power, so I hopped in the shower - praise hot water! - because we were going to a wine dinner in a nearby town that had also managed to keep power.  And not twenty minutes later... my folks' power went out!  Gaaah.  However, Dad had a generator that switched on, so there were a few lights, one working plug to charge our phones, and one shower that would stay warm.

What else to do but... go to the wine dinner and drink lots of wine!  This dinner was an event at Boulevard 18 in New Canaan, CT honoring the wines of the Alsace legend Maison Trimbach.  I have long loved Trimbach wines and it was spectacular to sample so many, beautifully paired with a sumptuous six-course meal from Chefs David Raymer and Kerry Dolan.

I adored the 2006 Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Personelle Gold Label.  It was elegant and concentrated, with hazelnut, honey and apricot notes, bright yet rich and sexy, and paired wonderfully with the Wild Mushroom Strudel course.   I also got to try something I'd never had before - the 2009 Trimbach Pinot Noir Reserve.  It's unusual to find many red wines from Alsace, although Pinot Noir does grow well in cooler climates.  This had a cherry and pomegranate nose and was herbal with good fruit in the mouth.  Of course, the star in the Trimbach crown once again shone brightly, and I just lapped up the 2005 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile.  It had a heady nose of petrol and white florals, super unctuous yet flirty, just amazing.  My mother has always fancied this wine, and while there are not many 2005s left on the market, I may pick up a couple of 2006s for her for Christmas.  (I'm such a good daughter.)

Believe me, there were many more bottles consumed over the past week by this Minx.  When you lose power, there is a loss of control.  You worry about your friends and loved ones, and even about strangers a few miles away whose lives have been devastated.  Wine is always a beverage for celebration, but it is also a beverage that soothes and comforts in times like these.

I joked about my hurricane essentials: candles, batteries, water, and lots of wine - but nearly everyone I know turned straight to the vino to help them get through and did not laugh about it.

My thoughts and heart go out to those still dealing with the repercussions of the storm.  We seem to have a nor'easter on its way in a few days, which hopefully won't be too bad for anyone, especially those still recovering from Sandy.  But I will make sure that I restock the essentials: candles, batteries, water, and lots and LOTS of wine.

Cheers -

And please, help in any way you can.  Thank you.

THE SEXIEST WINE EVER?!?

I have this weird "thing" with Amarone... I always forget how much I positively ADORE great Amarone until it's time to taste it again.  Maybe this is good - great Amarone is not cheap, and I am currently on a bit of a budget.  However, a recent tasting sponsored by Wine Spectator magazine may have catapulted Amarone back in my brain, this time for good. 

Amarone [Ah-mah-ROHN-ay]  is made in northeast Italy, in the Valpolicella region of Verona.  There is a small consortium of winemakers who have banded together as the "Amarone Families" in order to preserve the historical, family-oriented wine production in the region.  Certain other winemakers have sacrificed quality with over-production and trying to secure a lower price point for their wines, and the Amarone Families are working hard to preserve the quality and stature of Amarone in the world wine ideology.

They impose strict regulations on themselves beyond what is required by law, they encourage multiple generations of their own families to be involved, and they strive to make Amarone "with love, as an art," says Sandro Boscaini of Masi Agricola.

What makes Amarone special is the appassimento process; after harvest, the grapes are laid out to dry for many weeks or months before pressing, which concentrates the flavors immensely.  The primary grapes used in Amarone - Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara - are rarely found outside the region, with other indigenous grapes allowed in the blend.  There is somehow a perfect storm of factors which is impossible to replicate elsewhere; the grapes, the way they reflect their terroir, and how they are so perfectly suited to the drying process.  The resulting wine is bold, voluptuous, smooth yet with good acidity, and has the ability to age for 25-35 years or more.  And man, is it sexy.

For the tasting, we took a twenty-year journey back in time to the late 1980s, which is when Amarone really started showing up on the radar for American Wineaux.

Our first wine was the 2007 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie DOC.  It had a heady floral perfume, with a strong nose of cherries.  On the palate, it was elegant and smooth, concentrated yet bright, with an incredibly long finish.  The fruit and integrated structure were so appealing, I wanted to drink the whole glass down!  ($95)

Next, we had the 2006 Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOC.  With a nose of dried-cherry syrup and wet leaves, it had lots of structure and smooth tannins.  The flavors of dried fruit, spice, and an herby finish were quite strong, yet it remained smooth and elegant.  ($50)

The 2005 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli DOC had loads of perfume and black cherry liqueur on the nose.  This wine was dense, rich, and smooth with mocha powder, light herbs, dried black cherry fruit and smooth tannins.  ($70)

Number four was the 2004 Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classio Monte Cà Bianca DOC.  This showed sexy florals and herbs on the nose.  While somewhat lighter than the previous wines, it was incredibly smooth with strong lavender notes, and had firm tannins and good acidity. ($N/A)

Bottles of Amarone earmarked for the tasting.

From the extraordinarily hot summer of 2003, the 2003 Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC had intoxicating mountain florals, rosemary and other herbs on the nose.  HUMONGOUS and dense, this was packed with lush, jammy red fruit.  Its subtle structure nonetheless stood up to such outrageous fruit components.  Yum. ($75 for present vintage.)

I also loved the 2001 Venturini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC/DOP.  With a nose of cherries and an interesting lentil note, it was fresh, light, and fruity with very good acidity.  This easily quaffable wine had flavors of bright red cherries and raspberries, and had a friendly and charming personality.  For a wine with this age, it seemed quite youthful. ($N/A)

Our next wine came from a magnum - they have very few bottles left of this vintage - which presumably has helped it age so well.  The 2000 Nicolis "Ambrosan"Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC showed dried cherry liqueur and wet leaves on the nose.  It was luxurious in the mouth, with some herbs and dried flowers, yet still quite bright fruit.  "Soooo silky/sexy!" I wrote.  ($110 bt/$225 mag.)

If I had to choose a favorite, it might be the 1998 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato DOC.  Strong nose of wet leaves and cigar leaf, bit of meatiness, licorice and herbs.  The mouth was a bowlful of black fruits, with some mushroom and licorice.  There were so many complex elements, and it was incredibly robust with a long, balanced finish. ($N/A)  Mr. Alberto Zenato suggested pairing it with a pumpkin risotto, and I almost started drooling.

Or maybe my favorite was the 1997 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC.  It had notes of charcoal and blackberry liqueur on the nose, and the palate of dense, dark berries was outrageously smooth, like a silk robe, with a long, soft finish.  I did indeed write, "This wine is turning me on!" while peeking at my neighbors to see if they were getting flushed as well.  (Not likely available, but ~$150)

From one of the best Amarone vintages of the century, the 1995 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC showed strong wet leaves on the nose.  It was light, though velvety and elegant.  There still was good fruit, though minerally notes were starting to show.  An incredibly long finish with nice earthy structure.  ($NA)

Another classic vintage was 1990, and the 1990 Masi Agricola Mazzano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC was exactly what I expected from a stellar aged Amarone.  Nose of earth, leaves, prune, some barnyard and forest floor.  On the mouth, meaty and leather notes, plus some serious truffle.  Powerful yet elegant with a smooth, long finish.  ($300)

Finally (and boy, I didn't want this to end!) we had the 1988 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano DOC.  Those great aged notes of mushroom, earth, dried figs and truffle.  In the mouth, still great cherry fruit expression, with dried salami, licorice and chocolate.  Super silky and still feels very bright.  ($300)

After the tasting, the Amarone Families producers poured a number of recent vintages for us to sample as well.  I went through my notes looking for "yum"s to share some favorites:

2007 Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Cà Biance DOC - pine-y, floral, herbs nose, very berry and bright, yum. ($50)

2007 Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC - bright red fruit, yummy!  Good balance, dense but quaffable.  ($45)

2007 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano DOC - heady perfume of florals and berry fruits, stemmy, herby, dense and robust, pretty tannic.  Yum. ($65)

2006 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella 'Campo dei Gigli' DOC - mushroom, licorice, red fruit and florals on the nose... very smooth and dense, lots of robust fruit, big but soft.  Yum. ($45)

2001 Tommasi Ca'Florian Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC - mushroom, merde nose, light, elegant, soft red fruit, great length and balance.  Lovely.  ($50)

These Amarones were rich and smooth, and drinkable and well-structured, a kind of contradiction that might not make a lot of sense.  But I can tell you, it is worth it to seek out wines from the Amarone Families.  For more information about their wines, visit http://www.amaronefamilies.it.  By the way, all member-produced wines will have this logo somewhere on the capsule or label:

Once you've sampled these luxurious and sensual wines, you might agree with me that Amarone is, quite possibly, the sexiest wine ever.  Cheers!