MAMBO ITALIANO at the TRE BICCHIERI 2015

Every year, the Gambero Rosso organization awards the Tre Bicchieri (or, "three glasses,") to a select number of Italian wines from out of 45,000 sampled. Winners and runners-up are showcased during a world tour, which stopped off in New York early February.

Out of all the industry events I attend every year, the Tre Bicchieri seems to be one of the zaniest. Maybe it's the generally effusive nature of Italians themselves, but I think a lot has to do with the layout: wineries are organized by importer (not region, style, or even alphabetically,) so you're bopping from Franciacorta to Brunello to Amarone to Sicily and back again. Maybe it's also that there are a lot of friends and consumers allowed, so people are drinking more than spitting! Who knows. Just… zany.

As with many industry tastings, it's impossible to sample every single wine. IMPOSSIBLE! (For kicks, you can check out my madcap attempt to hit as many of the 250 wineries at the latest NY Wine Experience as I could.) At this year's Tre Bicchieri, there were 321 wines from 180 producers, so even if you were a speed demon and took only one measly minute to taste each wine, it would still take you almost five and a half hours to hit them all.

So I found a section of the room and just plowed in! ("3B" indicates Tre Bicchieri winners, others received slightly lower rankings.)

As luck would have it, I sampled the Red of the Year first. The 2007 Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva (3B) had great, elegant perfume, was "really delicious," with bright, spicy red cherries and brick dust. Silky tannins, good acidity, looooong length and a chewy finish. ~$300. The 2011 Vietti Barolo Castiglione also had an elegant nose, and was tasty—very floral and very earthy—and integrated. ~$45.

As a bubbly fan, I beelined for the 2009 Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB (3B). It was very yummy/dirty/funky on the nose, with yellow apple, straw, and a good mousse—warm and rich and oomphy. ~$40. I also was intrigued by the 2013 Adami Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Solingo Brut Col Credas (3B). Pear jumped from the nose, with light lemon, minerals, and a bright mousse. Very steely, clean and metallic, cuts like a knife. ~$22.

I also love Amarone (remember when I wondered if it was the Sexiest Wine Ever?) so sampled the 2010 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli (3B). It had tons of black fruit, was very tasty (though maybe not as velvety as I'd hoped,) with good fruit and cola notes. Still very young—I'm prepared to give it some time! ~$75.

The 2009 Morellino di Scansano Calestaia Reserva (3B) was intoxicating. Lots of floral and red fruit perfume, very tasty, bit of tea, spice, good fruit, flirty, well-structured yet approachable now. 100% Sangiovese from Tuscany. ~$42.

Another Tuscan group showed the 2010 Colle Massari Montecucco Sangiovese Lombrone Riserva (3B) with an attractive nose, delicious and complex fruit, spice, and yet easy-drinking. ~$45. I also enjoyed their "Super Tuscan" blend of Bordeaux-grapes and Sangiovese, the 2011 Colle Massari Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Grattamacco—very spicy, robust, lavender florals, tasty, earthy, good tannic structure. ~$75. And the 2009 Colle Massari Brunello di Montalcino Poggio di Sotto again had a great nose, with violet florals, caramel, herbs, chocolate... just lovely. I'll definitely be looking for more from this producer! ~$240.

Some Chiantis from Tuscany tasted next included the 2011 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Colledilà Gran Selezione (3B) with a most amazing nose! Very unusual: brick dust, crushed lavender, red plum, red currant. Lots of structure and intriguing on the palate, but the nose was the best. ~$55. And the 2011 Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva (3B) showed ripe red fruit on the nose, with red and black fruits (supported by 20% Merlot in the blend, no doubt,) with herbs and a pizza-spice-y finish. Tasty. ~$30.

At this point in my tasting, I met up with some friends: Mr. Some Damn Good Wine, Mr. Tolerant Taster, and Mr. NJ Wine and Beer (not every Wineau has a catchy name, but I guess the folks who do tend to gravitate to each other. [You can follow all these wacky Wineaux on the twitter, lose the "Mr."s and look them up!]) Our newly-formed Posse bounced around to some more tables, increasing the zany quotient by a factor of ten.

Hopscotching to Friuli Venezia Giulia, I tried the 2013 Ronco dei Tassi Collio Malvasia (3B)—abundant with minerals, pear, peach and straw, light and herby with a nice grip. ~$18. I really do enjoy Collio wines and was intrigued by the 2011 Ronco dei Tassi Fosarin, a white blend, which was very meaty and pungent, feel of warm hay, and viscous. ~$20. I went nutso over the 2008 Cantina Valpolicalla Negrar Amarone della Valpolicella Classico San Rocco Domini Veneti (3B). Graphite, smoky flintiness, violets! Herby perfume, intoxicating nose. Spicy, rich—THIS is sexy. Warm and ripe with subtle tannins, from a single vineyard. More, please! ~$40.

Back up to Lombardy and Franciacorta again, for the amazing 2007 Ferghettina Franciacorta Pas Dosé 33 Riserva (3B). Soapstone, lemon curd, honey and yellow apple on the nose, very crisp and clean, minerally, bit yeasty (72 months on the lees, so!) Very nice, very tasty. ~$48

Alas, when we made it to Tenuta Sette Ponti (the Winery of the Year,) they were out of their famous 2011 Oreno. Sad face. But the 2012 Tenuta Sette Ponti Saia Feudo Maccari (3B) was dense and spicy, with cocoa and earth, and supple tannins, (~$30) and the 2012 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo was earthy, herby and dense with tasty tart fruit. ~$25.

We all enjoyed the 2010 Velenosi Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare (3B): macerated berry nose, cherry cola, robust and fruity, VERY structured, super tannic, but very, very tasty. ~$50.

Back to white, back to Collio for the 2013 Ronco Blanchis Collio (3B)—spicy!! A true multitude of spices. Warm, round melon and... spice galore. ~$20. Although familiar with Gavi wines, I hadn't yet tried the 2012 Villa Sparina Gavi del Comune di Gavi Monterotondo (3B) which had delicious melon, litchi, great round fruit, and good minerality. Yum. ~$50.

And far be it from me to leave any Franciacorta unturned, so I sipped on the 2004 Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut Lucrezia Etichetta Nera (3B) which was quite perfumey, with florals and sugar cookie (~$150,) and the 2007 Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut Lucrezia CruPerdu, with a very soapy nose, great ripe fruit, pear, yeasty, tasty. ~$135.

Mr. NJ Wine and Beer and I accidentally left the other two in the dust zooming to the other side of the room to find an old friend, the 2010 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (3B). With a grappa-ish, herby nose, and "sweet" fruit, it presented a little too baked for me, alas. Maybe next time! ~$42

I had to fly to a meeting with another Wineau, so bid the remainder of my Posse adieu (or, ciao,) and headed out into the cold with a little Italian zaniness in my step. While I felt like I may have missed some real gems in all the chaos, I was thrilled at the numerous wines I did discover. With the incredible range of wines coming out of all corners of Italy, there truly is something for everyone—so grab three glasses of your own, split a bottle with some friends, and dance the zany night away.

Cheers!

CHIANTI'S NEW TITLE: GRAN SELEZIONE

Did you know there is more Chianti Classico in the U.S. than there is in Italy? America is such an important market for Chianti Classico, they came here first to unveil their newest, highest designation of quality: GRAN SELEZIONE.

On the ground level of the quality pyramid, there is "regular" Chianti, like the old-school straw-wrapped bottles. Then there is Chianti Classico, and next highest is Riserva, both of which must adhere to rising levels of regulations. This past January, the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (the oldest Consorzio—group of wine producers—in Italy) enacted the new Gran Selezione category at the top of the quality pyramid. This designation is self-regulated, which caused me to raise an eyebrow, but the standards are similar to other regions' high levels—in this case: more aging time, regulated grape varietals (minimum of 80% Sangiovese, 100% is allowed, with international varieties acceptable in the blend,) and 13% minimum alcohol.

Italians are extremely proud of their winemaking history. But, as was expressed in the introductory speeches at the U.S. Premiere recently in New York, the proliferation of quality wine around the globe and the growth in "new" winemaking areas mean that regions even with a storied history like Chianti Classico have to keep up.

As I moved around the room tasting the freshly minted Gran Seleziones, I wasn't initially overwhelmed by the obviousness of the apparent elevated quality. Some wines suffered perhaps from their new power, needing more time in bottle to smooth out the edges. Others showed incredible promise on the nose, but fell short of expectation in the mouth. But some were very intriguing and highly satisfying wines.

2010 Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Lamole (100% Sangiovese) had nice cherries and florals on the nose but was a bit acidic in the mouth, with a nice note of earth. ~$35. Their 2010 Grevepesa Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Castello di Bibbione—from a single estate—fared better, with a pleasant brightness, and softer finish of berries and a green stemminess. ~$35.

The 2009 Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Badia a Passignano (100% Sangiovese) was very good, with a nose of earth, spice, and coffee, and a zingy mouthfeel with red fruits on the palate. ~$50.

I quite enjoyed the 2009 Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Don Vincenzo (100% Sangiovese); great nose of cocoa powder, violets, and dried earth, with an excellent but not overbearing tannic structure. ~$45.

Maybe a "more typical" expression of CC was the 2011 Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Vigneto Querciolina - Sassello (100% Sangiovese) with its nose of earth and rose petals and savory notes in the mouth. Needs time. ~$60.

A favorite was the 2010 Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Vigna La Prima (100% Sangiovese) with an intoxicating aromatic nose full of purple flowers. Nice fruit expression, tea leaves, long finish, well-balanced, very structured, excellent character. ~$48.

I also was a fan of the 2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. (95% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.) Lovely perfumey nose of ripe cherry-berry fruit, smooth and velvety, bright fruit in the mouth, light but well-structured. ~$77

I'd give more time to the 2010 Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Il Margone (100% Sangiovese)—it had an herby, merde-y nose, and it was very tannic—hopefully it will open up in the future. ~$45.

Another favorite was the 2010 Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Castello Fonterutoli (92% Sangiovese, 8% Malvasia and Colorino.) With its cherries and tea leaves on the nose, it was pleasant and smooth yet still well-structured. Pretty quaffable; I'd say the best value of the day.  ~$30.

The 2010 Ruffino Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro (80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) was a real powerhouse, surely boosted by that Cabernet in the blend. Lots of dried tea leaves, tart cherry, and tons of structure. ~$33.

I loved the nose of the 2009 Fèlsina Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Colonia. It showed dusty earth, florals, and blackberry. It was a little closed on the palate, with tea and herb notes, but showed potential; I wrote, "give it time/air/food??" ~$150

I was intrigued by the 2010 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Colledilà (100% Sangiovese) with its prominent note of grape soda. Maybe an unusual descriptor, but apt! And it was balanced by rich lilac florals and light, fresh red fruit. ~$60.

The Ricasoli 2010 Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio (80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) teemed with earth and minerals—another to hold on to for a while as the flavors develop. ~$45

The best way to describe the 2011 Tenuta San Vincenti Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot) was "tricky," as the Merlot in the blend added softness and round fruits, but seemed to mask the inherent Sangiovese character. It was merde-y and earthy, deeply fruity, with bright acidity, and while it was not textbook Chianti Classico, I enjoyed it. ~$23.

Another interesting blend was the 2010 San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Il Grigio da San Felice (80% Sangiovese, 7% Abrusco, 5% [the nearly extinct] Pugnitello, 4% Malvasia Nera, 2% Ciligiolo, 2% Mazzese.) Barnyard, sweet earth, berry salad—lots of fruit, chewy and interesting, big and bold, smooth finish. Although the indigenous grapes again seemed to mute the traditional character of Sangiovese, I was continuously drawn back to this wine. ~$40.

Perhaps my ultimate wine of the day was the 2010 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Il Puro - Vigneto Casanova (100% Sangiovese). I wrote, "love love love the nose," with its opulent red and purple fruit. "Something very flirty here," a note of blueberry (unusual for Sangiovese,) bit of herbs, bit of earth, good acid, lots of structure, "yummmmmmy." ~$130

At the end of the day, I was left with some questions and not a lot of answers. Was this new designation merely an opportunity to justify incredibly high prices in some cases? I mean, really—is anyone actually going to pay over a hundred bucks for a bottle of Chianti? (I did not know price points at the time of the tasting, so I was disappointed to discover that my favorite wine was one of the most expensive, because I doubt I will ever get to try it again.)

Perhaps more importantly, is the quality level of Gran Selezione that much higher than mere "Riserva?" Wineaux, I honestly can't say. But at the end of the day, I suppose what matters most is that these producers are stretching out their techniques and styles in pursuit of even greater wines. And there are excellent offerings in the $30-50 range, making Gran Selezione wines accessible to consumers. Perhaps you should seek out some Gran Selezione Chianti Classico and see for yourself!

Cheers.