Full disclosure: I am not the world's biggest Brunello di Montalcino fan. I often find the younger wines unbalanced and overbearingly structured, and many BdMs with some age have lost their pleasant fruit and are just too austere for my palate.
But at a recent tasting sponsored by The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, I was introduced to a range of 2012s that absolutely sparked my interest. I'm sure the vintage isn't the only contributing factor to my change-of-heart, but it seems to be the foundation.
It certainly wasn't an easy growing season in Montalcino in 2012. With a dry start, snow and rain during important growth stages, and a HOT summer, yields were down. But the important weeks leading up to harvest were practically perfect.
BdM is a DOCG wine -- the highest-rated level of governmental standards of control. These are high-class wines, although their popularity has only risen to world-wide levels over the last 50 years or so.
|3D map of Montalcino, from the Consorzio presentation.|
2012 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium ruby color. Fragrant cherry, floral, cola nose with ripe, perky fruit. Quite tart in the mouth, with tangy, mouthwatering acidity, and a cheeky, long finish, with present but integrated tannins. One of my faves, and perhaps the most "easy-drinking." ~$70.
2012 Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium ruby color. Big tangy cherry-berry nose, with sandalwood and florals. A bit stemmier, bramble-y, and a mineral tang like a rare steak sangue. Good acid, nice finish. ~$50.
2012 La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium-plus ruby color. Woodsy, sweet herbs, black cherry nose. This one's gutsier, quite tannic with good acidity, yet elegant and balanced. ~$45.
2012 Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium ruby color. Light floral perfume, merde-y nose. Super dry feel, leafy, dusty. Stylistically not my fave, but also well-balanced. ~$60.
2012 Loacker Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium-plus dark ruby color. (The most opaque of the flight.) Ripe fruit, robust nose. Big and bold, black cherry and grape soda notes. High acidity, big but balanced tannins, a bruiser. (Higher altitude and maybe picked later?) But I like it! ~$75
2012 Pian Delle Querci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium ruby color. Very herb-y, cherry, pine nose. Super structured, but classic Brunello -- elegant and playful in the mouth, with spices and tart cherry. Another fave. ~$40.
2012 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -- Medium ruby color. Very astringent feel, leafy, eucalyptus/pine sharpness, with more sangue minerality. I have a slight suspicion my glass was off, but couldn't verify. ~$55.
So what REALLY made the Minx reconsider her thoughts on Brunello? As Jeff Porter, Beverage Director for the Batali/Bastianich Hospitality Group and one of the leaders of the tasting, said, these are "very pretty" wines. They were elegant and approachable, and in every case I found the potentially troublesome acidity and tannins inherent in Sangiovese totally well-balanced. That structure makes these long-lived, and also incredible food wines, so I just might have to pop out and grab a few bottles, for now AND later!